|Here you will find all the information about the 800 which is of general nature. For specific areas choose from the options on the left.|
|To jump straight to a category on this page click on any of the words listed between the two red lines!|
|Happy Sailers | Speed|
|Still needing racing "CF" numbers for DF800|
|[from: Rudi Schwarz, Germany, 05 Sep 2006]|
|Nachtrag zur Thema CF Nummer ( corrective factor ). Die Regatta ist leider vorbei. Vielleicht für eine andere Regatta. Ich suche eine IMS oder ORC Faktor für meinen DF 800.|
|[Follow-up to the CF numbers (corrective factor). Unfortunately the race is over but maybe for another regatta. I'm looking for an IMS or an ORC number for my DF800.]|
|Needed "CF" Number for Netherland for DF800|
|[from: Rudi Schwarz, Germany, 12 Aug 2006]|
|I need for the "24uurs race" in Netherland the "CF" Number (corrective factor) for DF800 Cruising G203.
Can anybody help me?
|Re: Wanting to rent DF800 on Baltic Sea|
|[from: Keld Krogh Nielsen, Denmark, 19 Jul 2006]|
|Hi Henning, I might be interested in renting my DF800 to you. It is based on the Fjord of Flensburg. Please drop me a line on my mail: firstname.lastname@example.org to discuss further. Keld |
|Wanting to rent DF800 on Baltic Sea|
|[from: Henning, Germany, 2 Jul 2006]|
|In near future I´m looking to buy a Dragonfly 800, but first I would like to rent such boat on the Baltic Sea to make sure that this boat is the right one for me and my family.
Is there anyone who can help me where to rent a boat for one or two weeks in summer 2007 near Germany or Danmark.
Thank you for anwers. Henning
|Re: DF800 Weather/Lee Helm ? (Walter Siebold, 6 June 2005)|
|[from: Paul Erb, USA, 24 Jun 2006]|
|One important thing is to make sure the CB can be extended fully down and is set fully down. When I bought my boat and lifted it for repainting, I lowered the board and found that the CB line was too short. The board would not go fully down to the design limit. We had had a fairly consistent lee or neutral helm upwind and close reaching before I adjusted this. Later I got a new fathead mainsail and that also helped to ensure slight weather helm at all times. I see one additional factor, and I would be curious about others observations... I observe that when the boat is being over-pressed with sail upwind, it seems to develop more neutral or even slight lee helm (opposite to a monohull). We think this may be due to extra drag on the submerging leeward ama, which would tend to steer the boat downwind. It can also be due to easing the main traveler and sheet in puffs. Would be interested in opinions on these factors. Our GPS tells us that if we reef earlier than the manual says for upwind or close reach, we seem to lose little if any speed and also reduce leeway, in addition to keeping better helm balance and reducing stress on the boat.|
|Re: DF800 Weather/Lee Helm ? (Walter Siebold, 6 June 2005)|
|[from: Chris Hobday, UK, 17 Jun 2006]|
|Walter I've been sailing my 800 for 3 years now and think the weather/lee helm comes and goes depending on how you sheet the main. Strongly advice only ever sailing with the rudder fully down to do anything else will load up the rudder fittings and risks them breaking. I always use lots of main sheet tension get the leach in line with the boom and the mast. Sighting from up from under the boom and its easy to see the leach falling off. |
|Review of used DF800 in UK sailing mag|
|[from: John Blaiklock, UK, 13 Jun 2006]|
|A used DF800 is reviewed in the July issue of the UK sailing magazine, Yachting Monthly.|
|Manual for DF800 fixed wing wanted|
|[from: Russell Dowse, South Africa, 23 Mar 2006]|
|I have just purchased a Dragonfly fixed wing and I am looking for a manual, can anybody assist?|
|More on DF800 improvements, based on my #235 (1994 boat)|
|[from: Paul Erb, USA, 5 Dec 2005]|
|* I have so far used a "poor man's" solution for clearing the backstays off the cockpit winches. Replace the lower fiddle blocks on the backstay with blocks that include a cam cleat, set at the proper angle to work from the cockpit. Note that this should ONLY be used off the wind, when the winches need to be clear for the spinnaker. Upwind, I prefer to keep the highly loaded backstays on the winches on both sides.
* Regarding the asymmetric spinnaker pole, be sure to get the proper new bow fitting from Quorning, and also be sure to reinforce the bow area where it is installed. I clipped my pole to the old bow fitting at first (lazy!) and only succeeded to ram the pole through the bow due to the compression!
* Soon, I would like to rig a second crank on the boom (like the outhaul crank). The crank would be aft of the outhaul and exit the boom near the back end through a sheave block. From this point the wire or spectra line would go to a snap shackle for use as a boom vang when the main is eased. In this way one does not have to detach the backstay tackle to serve as a boom vang. The backstay blocks could be difficult to reattach in heavy seaway or sudden wind shift. Upwind, the same wire or rope can be snapped onto the mast rotation limiter for extra purchase and adjustment.
|Re: First season improvements to boat (details)|
|[from: Jean Philippe, Switzerland, 5 Dec 2005]|
|Further details and photos for|
1) Stoppers (line jammer) for backstays
|Re: First season improvements to boat|
|[from: Sepp Lerchenmüller, Austria, 29 Nov 2005]|
|Could You please release photos and/or drawings of your solutions regarding Bowsprit for Gennaker and the Backstayfixing? Sounds interesting.|
|First season improvements to boat|
|[from: Jean Philippe, Switzerland, 27 Nov 2005]|
|DF-800 SW First season|
I am the third owner of hull nbr 163, here a few comments after our first summer on lake Geneva:
Freeing winches from the backstay use: we have installed stoppers on the akas (back arms) at about a third of the way from the cockpit, so they are pretty well aligned when unfolded and reachable from the cockpit. This allow us to use the winches for the genoa (a reacher kind of sail, not the standard jib that goes on the top winches) and also for the spinnacker.
Assymetrical spinacker: A better choice then a normal spinacker, have installed a bowsprit (carbon tube ex-windsurf mast) removable sliding for and aft on the deck (clew position from normal position is one extra meter). The end of the tube is held in po! sition with one cable down to the standard fitting to pull the boat on the trailer, plus two adjustable lines to the forward end of the floats (I use the barber haulers as they are not used for the genoa when the spi is up). I have just received the sail, it is 55sqm2 and I will fix a new higher fitting on the mast, say 40 cm above the normal one (but not at the top of the mast which would require extra backstays). First trial shows it works fine, higher position will help as visibility is concerned.
Speed: I think its fair to target a 100% speed compared to real wind speed and that on the optimum angle which seems to be a broad reach, maybe a bit more speed and lower angle with the spi. Actual top speed reached was 16.5 knots (no spi that day).
Yardstick number: Our club has given us a provisional number of 90, I have seen it as low as 85, will now apply for an official rating with the spi. Will try to participate in the 2006 Bol d'Or, any other DF coming?
Willing to post/send or take pictures if someone is interested.
|[from: Paul Erb, USA, 23 Nov 2005]|
|In reply to Paul Paddock -- The DF800 goes very easy on/off the factory trailer without even wetting the wheels. Mast raising system is straightforward, but attention required to avoid twisting anything when rigging. It will take awhile the first time, but it gets quicker. Takes me about 30 minutes now to lower or raise, but allow another 30 minutes to tie everything down for the road. The amas (and cross arms - "akas") are definitely the extra challenge for the DF800. The Amas can be handled by two strong guys, but then you have no one to thread or unthread the nut on the bolt. Three is easiest. You can arrange right-size sawhorses and also lines on the akas to support one end of the ama and do the job with two people. I have successfully disassembled by myself but not preferred (too much rigging). In my opinion, no way to assemble alone. The aka's are no big deal after the amas are secure. Bottom line is around 3 hrs from highway to waterway with one reasonably knowledgeable sailor to help and a bystander to fix the bolting at the right time. Three people that really know the job could do it in less than 2 hours nonstop. On the plus side the whole rig tows fine behind my 160hp Toyota minivan with 3500lb rated towing capacity.|
|[from: Paul Paddock, USA, 22 Nov 2005]|
|I am considering the purchase of a DF800. Trailerability is an important
consideration to me. Would appreciate details about the exact process to get the boat highway ready on the trailer, (as well as ready to launch from the trailer).
I've heard that the amas need to be unbolted and flipped to get them on the trailer in a way that the whole package is a legal highway width.
How heavy are the amas? How many people does this operation take? Are special tools required?
|Headroom in DF800|
|[from: Samu Lehikoinen, Finland, 12 Aug 2005]|
|Hi Happy DF owners !
I've been thinking of getting DF800, but I am just bit concerned about small size. Can you tell me what is the average height of the cabin ? I am 175 cm tall, any change that I could stand straight indoors ?
|Weather/Lee Helm ?|
|[from: Walter Siebold, United States, 6 Jun 2005]|
|I just got a DF800SW and I have a very neutral helm. In my beach cat I had a slight weather helm (in case I fell off the boat it would go into irons). With a little weather helm I was able to sail the boat by "feel" without looking at the sails. I notice that the rudder rake can be adjusted. My main sail has some problems and I am not getting enough power (this might affect the helm pressure). Playing with the centerboard does not have any effect. However, it is nice to be able leave the rudder unattended for a while without the boat changing direction.
What kind of helm do you guys have? What is recommended? Can I increase weather helm by raking the rudder?
|Differences between Elan 7.7 and DF800 ?|
|[from: Methven, United States, 12 Apr 2005]|
|I'd appreciated hearing differences between Elan 7.7 and 800 ? :)
(Interior, rigging, sailing,etc.)
My example is choosing 3yo Elan vs. 12yo 800. Both swing wing. Kind Thanks!
|Re: Cost of shipping DF800 from Europe to USA|
|[from: Michel Brown, Canada, 10 Apr 2005]|
|Last year (January 2004) I've got a quotation of 4165 US$ to ship a Challenge 30 (30' french foldable trimaran) from Le Havre, France to Montreal, Canada and the transportation from La Rochelle to Le Havre was 1625 Euros.|
|Cost of shipping DF800 from Europe to USA ?|
|[from: S Easterbrook, United States, 5 Apr 2005]|
|Any Info or Experiences on shipping a Dragonfly (800) from Europe to U.S. via container ? ($$$ ?)
Inventory of Used-800's looks much greater in Europe !
|In answer to Frans Loots from South Africa|
|[from: Steve Mellet, South Africa, 11 Feb 2005]|
|Having crewed on Dragonflies for a number of years, I can tell you there are a few techniques to make her go really fast, too numerous to mention here. Have you tried to contact the Dragonfly class association in SA ?
Ben Mienie is arguably the best DF sailor in SA, situated at Stilbaai Yacht club, Vaaldam. E-mail me direct for his tel. no., I`m sure he`ll give you a few tips.
With respect to speed comparisons upwind between DF & 38ft mono`s, you will always struggle to point with them since you are sailing a boat which generates much more apparent wind than they do. You need to find the sweet spot between pointing & speed. Faster you go, the more you get "headed" by app. wind. We have done 19knots upwind under full rig on flat water in about 20knots true wind ! If you want to point higher you`ll have to sacrifice some speed.
|[Frans, if you get in contact with me, I'll pass on Steve's e-mail address to you. Bo]|
|Re: New DF800 owner needs a bit of advice|
|[from: Michael Hucke, Germany, 11 Jan 2005]|
for more info on a better motor bracket click her: DF800 Motor
For more info on the positioning of the depth sounder click here: DF800 Equipment
|Re: New DF800 owner needs a bit of advice|
|[from: Larry, United States, 5 Jan 2005]|
|Paul - I saw your post with DF-800 questions. I own a DF-920, so I can’t answer most of your rigging questions but you should contact Richard at Dragonfly USA 908-232-7890. I think you’ll find Richard very knowledgeable and helpful.
The centerline area of my 920 is solid (forward of the centerboard trunk, all the way to the bow) and you might find yours is too. Most of the hull area is cored. A depth sounder will “shoot” through solid fiberglass if you mount it in epoxy or silicone. It’s important that there are no bubbles or gaps between the transducer and the water, so this will only work with a solid fiberglass lay-up, and you must be careful not to leave bubbles in the mounting material. You may find you lose some ability to get deep readings (several hundred feet) with this method, but if you’re like me you’re more concerned with shallow depths.
If that method doesn't work for you then you should mount it wherever you can find space and orient it down... the hull area under the cockpit is more gradual and flat and will probably be easier, but you should not have it too close to the area of the centerboard (water turbulence flowing off the board can give false-shallow readings at the depth of the turbulence).
If the area around the hole is cored you will need to remove the core material around the hole and fill it with epoxy or polyester putty. Use a good underwater sealant. (Polysulfides... Lifecaulk, 3M 101, or 4200 will provide all the sealing you need and still let you replace the transducer without too much trouble if ever needed. I don't recommend 5200 for this application because the bond is too strong, and all you need is a seal.)
Good luck with your new boat.
|New DF800 owner needs a bit of advice|
|[from: Paul Erb, United States, 22 Dec 2004]|
|Season's Greetings to all... I am a reasonably new owner of a previously-owned Dragonfly 800. I would appreciate input from other DF owners on the following:
1) Best method to rig the "tack line" for asymmetrical (bow pole type) spinnaker on a DF 800... where to lead and terminate with access to a winch?
2) Any experience upgrading standard outboard motor bracket to move more smoothly and lift easier, also eliminate sideways flexing? (I have had contact with one owner in Germany who completely replaced the bracket, but first I would like to investigate just upgrading).
3) Best type, location and method of installation for depth sounder and/or speed meter?
4) What is the best solution for storage of the main companionway hatch when under sail?
I am located in Texas, USA, and other DF owners are welcome to contact me at email@example.com if they come to the area (especially Houston).
|Re: Performance difference between DF800 cruising/racing ?|
|[from: Nikolaus Rollwage, Germany, 5 Nov 2004]|
|Both boats are great, but the 800CR is not necessarily slower than the 800R. (Well, my boat is a 800CR.) Under certain circumstances, you can even pass a 800R with a 800CR!
Both boats have the same hull, especially is the 800R not broader than the 800 CR. That means, with a 800R you have to reef earlier. The 800R would be my choice for light wind areas, e.g. Lake Constance or the Austrian lakes.
If that's not the case, I assume it's the best to invest the saved money in a bowsprit and two additional sails, e.g. big+smaller Spi/Gennaker. That gives you a high leverage. For example, I once passed easily a 920 (with 12 knots instead of approx. 10) on a course 75° to windward because I had a flat cut gennaker and the 920 didn't, I'm sure with same sails the 920 would have been slightly faster.
-- Paul: My handbook (1998) recommends to reef the jib at 15 knots true wind, except downwind.
|Re: Performance difference between DF800 cruising/racing ?|
|[from: Ted P, United States, 28 Oct 2004]|
|We used to race our 25 with just two on board! I cut my sailing teeth racing Hobies......so it was natural to just sail with one crew member. We used to race the local Wednesday night series.
On reefing....like Paul said. Reef the jib first. We would do this around 17 Knots +. Depending on how hard the gusts were. That usually did the trick till it got over 25. Then reef the main and hang on!
I now have a 1000, and we still reef the jib first...just a little sooner.
|Re: Performance difference between DF800 cruising/racing ?|
|[from: Paul Erb, United States, 26 Oct 2004]|
|I have cruising version. The book says first reef at 20 knots true wind, but I think anything over 15 knots is more realistic unless you are really pressing the boat with an experienced racing crew and playing the main in/out. I imagine that the racing version will need reefing somewhat earlier. Note that the jib is recommended to be reefed first, before the main is reefed. This eases the boat quite a bit and it is done around 14-15 knots (meters/second is 1/2 the value in knots). I don't think there would be any difference in crew size for the two versions, but the racing version has two running backstays to look after (as I understand it), so the crew will be busier. Three crew is probably right for racing (lighter weight downwind), but four crew is easier in heavy air. If you take four, be mindful of max weight on the ama and don't overstress the boat (I would keep one of the four inboard to make adjustments).|
|Re: Performance difference between DF800 cruising/racing ?|
|[from: Michael Banner, United States, 26 Oct 2004]|
|I too am considering buying a DF 800 and trying to decide which mast. I had an opportunity to sail a racing version DF 800 and was very impressed with speed and balance, but have no way to compare with the cruising version.
-- Michael in Germany, I will be visiting the factory soon. Please email me directly if you want to discuss and compare what we have both learned so far. firstname.lastname@example.org
|[I think, it would be beneficial to all, if you would share the information with all on the User Forum. Bo]|
|Performance difference between DF800 cruising/racing ?|
|[from: Michael, Germany, 23 Oct 2004]|
|I am thinking about buying a DF 800.|
I would appreciate any information about the differences in performance, crew requirements (weight, number, experience) etc between crusing and racing version. Up to which windforce can you go without reefing, when do you have to use the first / second reef ...
|More to the history of 'MAGIC HEMPEL'|
|[from: Peter, Canada, 24 Sep 2004]|
|Thanks for posting that wonderful story about MAGIC HEMPEL (see below: What glorious boats, the Dragonflys. I found a
little bit more about that boat at www.catsailor.com/hall_fame/TomLinton.html
"It was during the 1986 Round-the-Delmarva Peninsula Great Ocean Race, a 365 mile race over Memorial Day Weekend, while sailing his 25-foot Dragonfly Trimaran Magic Hempel that
they spotted something in the water. They were 23-miles offshore and in the lead of this tough race, when the crew took a closer look through their binoculars. At first they thought it
might be a whale, but they quickly discerned it was a man waving. The man in question was Tom Dower, aged 68, of Newfoundland who was standing on the remains of a 33-ketch in
only his long underwear. His boat had been run down and sliced in half by a trawler under a full moon in a calm sea at about 1 AM. The trawler kept on going, leaving Dower to die.
Dower, who had been sleeping in the aft section had to swim out of it because it was sinking.
He clung to the floating forward section.
Linton and crew abandoned the race and rescued Dower. Dower said, "Thank God for sailors!" For his efforts, Linton was given a citation by the city of Annapolis in recognition of
the rescue. Linton said, "After all the races - win or lose in a 30-plus-year career of racing - I'd have to say this was my proudest moment. To have the opportunity to save a life, and to do so effectively, is more important than winning any race."
|History: DF800 in 2-handed round Britain & Ireland race ?|
|[from: Victor, United Kingdom, 14 Sep 2004 ]|
|When the DF800 was first introduced into the UK, I understand that a boat was entered into the 2 handed round Britain and Ireland race. Does anyone have any stories from that race - how the boat handled? Who were the sailors? What was their finishing position?|
|I am interested in small, trailerable trimarans|
|[from: Chris, Austria, 9 Aug 2004]|
I am interested in small, trailerable trimarans and I found the Dragonfly 800 and the F 24 with a lot of information and happy sailers. There are as well some new designs like the CATRI 24 or the TRITIUM 720, but I only found the builders or the designers articles. No self-builders or sailors! -Does anyone know something about this boats? Or has anyone ather suggestions for a small, trailerable, fast trimaran which should be able to cross parts of not protected waters as well. -And can the DF 800 do this without problems?
Thanks a lot! Chris
|What glorious boats, the Dragonflys|
|[from:Michael Waters, United States, 29 Jul 2004]|
|Some longtime followers of Dragonfly Sailboats, will remember the famous boat that started the whole series ... the 25.5ft Dragonfly 100 (or so numbered) with the name "MAGIC HEMPEL". She shocked everyone back in 1985 when she was first launched - when she won the Round Britain race on corrected time in some pretty rough conditions. She was soon sold to the USA and won everything in sight before finally being shipwrecked in the Pacific. But that was not the end. A trimaran fan rescued her, rebuilt new amas and she was soon up and running again. Finally, I had a chance to buy her and so for the last 14 years, I have delighted in sailing this phenomenal boat .... an 'extreme' version at that time and in '85. clearly the fastest production boat in the world. Every year, she still delivers a few bursts of 20knots and has occasionally shown me 22. But it's the super-smooth handling, the manouvrability and her performance in very light wind that also sets her apart. I am an accomplished naval architect myself and as such, I have NEVER owned any of my 20 odd boats for more than a few years without becoming dissatisfied. The greatest compliment I can give this boat is that after 14+ years with her, she never ceases to amaze and thrill all who sail on her and I've given up thinking that I could EVER design something better! Age and arthritis will eventually force her from me, but this will be one of the hardest days in 60+ years of sailing. Magic Hempel still carries 400 sqft of basic sail and has a beam of 22.5ft and the acceleration in a puff, is still enough to nearly knock you off your feet. Handling is superb, as she goes exactly where you want her to go and darn quickly too !
I take my hat off to the Quornings .... what a wonderful series has now developed from 'Magic'. It's too bad there is not a Hall of Fame Museum for her someday .... she clearly deserves that honor.
|Lake Tahoe DF800|
|[from: Cameron, United States, 12 Jul 2004]|
|Howdy folks! We're taking this forum out to the wild west to let ya know we're racing a DF800 (Sail #230) on Lake Tahoe in California (Ok, we might actually cross the NV state line as it runs right through the middle of the lake). We have posted photos at http://www.offyonder.com/index.shtml.
Also, we'd like to know if there are any other DF's out in this corner of the world. Rumor has it there's another DF800 in the SF Bay.
Thanks for the great forum! Vielen Dank! Ciao!
|Re: DF800 or F24 Corsair ?|
|[from: William Wallace, Ireland, 12 Mar 2004]|
|Thanks to everyone who answerd my questions, Bo any suggestions where I could purchase an 800 used version.
|[To find a 2nd hand DF800|
a) look in the For Sale section of this forum
b) contact a Dragonfly dealer (he might have one for sale or know of one for sale - and mention this forum, for contact addresses see the Links/Contacts page)
c) Place an advert yourself in the forum describing the type of DF800 you want (crusing/racing, age, price limit etc)]
|Re: DF800 or F24 Corsair ?|
|[from: Nikolaus Rollwage, Germany, 7 Mar 2004]|
| own a DF800 (Nr. 279), but have before tried a new F-24 in 2001 at a regatta on a Bavarian lake (Deutschlandcup, Chiemsee). The 2000 built F-24, steered by a regatta experienced skipper (I did mainly the spi), was a bit slower than a participating older DF800 (built about 1991), but not much: e.g., five minutes in a 3-hour-race. However, it's also a bit smaller. An American table of wind dependent handicaps of both boats and many other multihulls can be found at www.ussailing.org/portsmouth/tables00/tables00mh1.htm .
Both boats are very nice to sail. I agree with John Blaiklok that the inside of the DF800 ist much, much prettier than the F-24, and a cockpit tent is a must in colder regions in my opinion.
Some other points:
- The daggerboard of the F-24 is not a kick-up, and it vibrates noisily at a certain speed (as I remember at 9 knots). I never had that with my DF800, not even at 15 knots or more.
- The general quality of DF800 is in my opinion better, e.g. if you compare the trampolines or the hull-deck-connections.
- The F-24 is faster to put on a trailer. This is a big advantage if you sail e.g. on Bavarian or Austrian lakes.
- The folding mechanism of the F-24 has advantages, provided you don't leave the boat folded for a long time.
- Generally spoken, F-boats heel a bit easier, as the swimmers are a bit smaller in relation to mass; and have a V-shaped cross-section instead of the U-shaped cross-section of the DF800. You might see this as an advantage (early capsize warning) or disadvantage (less stability).
- The current low exchange rate of the USD make the F-24 much cheaper than it was two years ago.
By the way, the F-24 is very nice in red, while the DF800 is very nice with a blue hull.
Best wishes, and let us know your decision, Niko
|Re: DF800 or F24 Corsair ?|
|[from: John Blaiklock, United Kingdom, 1 Mar 2004]|
|For sailing in the rather cool and damp Scottish and Irish coasts, the Dragonflies have a significantly better choice of materials used internally. Corsairs are lined with carpet. This is not a good choice in a wet climate. Also extra shelter from a cockpit tent is not an option with a Corsair.
Look at the climates where Dragonflies and Corsairs are made: Dragonfly: cold climate; Corsair: hot climate.
|DF800 or F24 Corsair ?|
|[from: William Wallace, Ireland, 1 Mar 2004]|
|I intend to purchase a Trimaran, I would like some help please, I do not have any experience of sailing trimarans, however by literature only I have narrowed my choice down to the 800 and the F24 Corsair.
I would very much appreciate any comments, or helpfull suggestions, or constructive advise which any of you may wish to pass onto me. I would intend using it around N.Ireland/S.W. Scotland and for racing.
Best wishes for the 2004 Season, William
|I'm definitely getting either an F-27 or Dragonfly 800|
|[from: Brooks, United States, 24 Oct 2003]|
|1) they are hard to find in the states(1 for sale right now 3000 miles away) and
2) I read one review which made it sound like the head/potty/wc was, let's say, very user unfriendly and definitely un-private. As I plan to take groups out for long sails I'd appreciate some user experience in this awkward area. (or tell me DF800 is so much better this is insignificant)
Any other info that might help my decision appreciated. Thanks
|[There are quite are number of DF800s for sale in Europe (see our For Sale page), maybe you should come over here for a holdiday and pick one up. It can be easily shipped back in a container. Bo]|
|Re: Canadian built DF25|
|[from: Darryl Brathwaite, Caribbean, 9 Oct 2003]|
|The main difference between the Canadian built DF25 and the Quorning Boats appears to be the reduction of cost (and weight) by excluding the beautiful internal pannelling made of hand rubbed teak.
1. I have sailed my Quorning through stormy conditions in chanel crossings (30-40 kts gusts and 10 ft choppy waves) without reefing, as the boat is very stable and well mannered. My interest in the boat stemmed from published articles about its third place in the Round Britain Race 1992 and I switched from buying a cataman for the improved stability (safety).
2. The demountable crossbeams are the same as the mast section and when the tension is equalised between the side stays and the water stays the load is shared by the stays (just like the mast). My boat has been raced for 25 years and there are no sign of corrosion or stress at the main structural connecting points.
3. My Quorning has a foam core. Holes (for fittings) through balsa core must be carefully sealed. When buying a used boat, a marine survey with a thorough moisture-meter inspection must be conducted to detect posible soft spots of wet balsa.
Owners of these boats are happy and enthusiastic about ownership and no-one has publicly expressed any regrets.
|DF25: Info wanted on Canadian built DF25|
|[from: Peter Medway, Canada, 6 Sep 2003]|
|I am looking at purchasing a Canadian built Dragonfly 25. There are two on the market, one 1989 demountable and another 1991, swing wing.
I am wondering
1. How do these boats handle heavy weather? How do they do in a heavy chop? (I have heard that one was in the Round Britain Race. Anyone know of any other offshore voyages?)
2. On the demountable anyone know of any problems with the crossbeams breaking due to corrosion or stress?
3. The swing wing is a balsa cored hull. Is that the same with Quorning boats? Any problems to watch out for with balsa cored?
Any comments or information about these boats appreciated.
Peter, Nova Scotia
|Re: Velocity Prediction Polar Graphs for the DF800|
|[from: Darryl Brathwaite, Caribbean, 15 Aug 2003]|
|Since you may be satisfied with generic targets, the following estimate deals with light (under 8 kts windspeed) conditions and "as observed" from racing alongside. The estimates should be close until windspeed gets above 12 kts at which time aero and hydro friction will slow the boat somewhat.
- Windward Boatspeed is 60% of windspeed at 50 degrees off the wind.
- Close Reach (no screacher). Boatspeed is 80% windspeed.
- Broad Reach (spinnaker/screacher). Boatspeed is 100% windspeed
|Re: message frm Allen Daun, Wisconsin; sail the Mississippi|
|[from: Kevin Kane, USA, 6 Mar email@example.com]|
|In response to a message from Allen Daun from Wisconsin, I too sail the Mississippi and trailer my boat (not a Dragonfly---yet) to Lake Superior. I would like to get in touch and discuss the pros (and cons) of the DF 800. Please contact me at my e-mail address. Thanks.|
|Velocity Prediction Polar Graphs for the DF800 SW ?|
|[from: Eric Baizeau, France, 2 Feb 2003]|
|Are there any Velocity Prediction Polar Graphs for the DF800 SW ?|
|Some difference between 800MkII and 800SW(MkIII?)|
|[from: Martin Soerensen, Denmark, 3 Nov 2002, firstname.lastname@example.org]|
|MkII is cheaper, easily 10-15000 Euro for a comparable boat.
Almost all MkIIs have Alu Crossbeams, a few were made in 89 with fixed fibreglass wings (MkIII?). All SWs have fibreglass beams/wings.
The rudder is improved on the SW, apart from the very first example.
Below deck the boats are very much the same. Of course the Mk IIs are older.
If you want to know more you can contact me privately, I know of a couple for sale. Unfortunately I had to drop the idea of buying myself one for the time being.
|Non-folding 800 vs folding 800|
|[from: Reidar Harjo Johansen, Norway, 3 Nov 2002]|
|We used to have a 25, one of the first in production (N-342M). One of these days I'd love to get another Dragonfly! However, I have no need for a folding version, and hence se no reason for paying extra for this.
So what are the different non-folding models? The one we had (25) was cramped inside. Then came a 26?? Not? And different 800's? But by this time I was no longer paying attention to the developement. I'm trying to catch up!
800 MkI, MkII ? What are the differences?
|More to DF25/DF800 difference|
|[from: Bart van der Werf, Netherlands, 16 Oct 2002]|
|A Dragonfly 25 is, because of its weight, easier to transport with a normal car. We went over the Alpes with a Peugeot 405 station wagon.|
|The Differences between DF25 and DF800|
|[from: Kenny Poulsen, Denmark, 17 Aug 2002]|
|Weight: 800 weight >1000 kg, 25 approx 750-800 kg|
Inside: 4-6 people around a table in 800, 4 people on 3 sides of a table in 25. 4 people can sleep in 800, only 3 in 25. Cabin is wider and more pleasant in 800.
Some of the 25 don't have access to front cabin through the main cabin, if access is present, it is a hard work to get into it from main cabin because of the daggerboard in the 25.
Interior equipment (cooker, sink, toilet etc can vary from boat to boat)
800 has the pivoting centre-board, the 25 has a daggerboard.
800 has more volume in outriggers than the 25.
800 has a better rudder head.
800 (no SW) are more stiff in beams than the 25, gives more pleasant feeling on the sea.
Speed: I guess the 25 is faster than the 800 generally (I never tried the 800 Racing). The 25 accelerates better due to lower weight. I experienced +22 knots with the 25, never above 18,2 knots with standard 800(noSW)
Sailing: 25 more dinghy-like feeling, 800 more "stable" and slower movements.
Most (maybe all) of the 800´s has reefing systems fitted, not all 25 does have had reefing systems fitted originally.
Used boats: Generally there are no really weak points. Due to the thin laminates in some areas you might see fine cracks in gelcoat around the deck areas. Normally this doesnt give any problems at all. Delamination of seats in cockpit and cabin roof can occur.
The beams in alu can be defect caused by corrosion in areas where it is fitted to hull/outriggers and in the area of the mainsail track on beam. Specially the 25 can have some problems where waterstays (also 800) and backstays are fitted to the beam. Carefully examine these (dissassembly needed)!
On older boats, the trampoline mesh and stiching are often weak or damaged due to the sunlight and wear and tear.
Hatches/windows may show corrosion and eventually the windows can be leaking (I guess the leaking is caused due to the movements of the hull?)
Generally one should look for proper fitting and leakage of the deck gear.
If you need a boat for racing and fun, the 25 is a nice boat, but if you need to take the family (2 adults and 2 kids is perfect) on tour, the 800 is better.
Thats is some of the things I remembered just now.........
|What's the difference between DF800 and DF25?|
|[from: Martin Soerensen, Denmark, 6 Aug 2002]|
|Can anyone enlighten me on the finer differences between DF25 and DF800?|
I know the DF800 is a bit longer and often has SW (and is heavier). What is the extra lenght used for? How does handling compare? I know the DF25 is older, but the prices I have seen are something like 40% of a DF800SW.
Oh yes, one more thing: Any experince with the durability of the DF25? Some of the boats are getting towards 20 years now, is there anywhere in particular to look for problems?
Thanking in advance (tia)
|What is the CE classification for the DF800|
|[from: Martin Srensen, Denmark, 30 July 2002]|
|And what would it be for a Wayfarer dinghy? One of those were sailed from Scotland to Norway...
Which practical consequenses do the CE classification have?
Bo Wetzel:DF800 is CE category C. I would think your boat insurance will not cover you, if you use a boat outside the limits specified by the CE classifiction.
|Can I trailer a DF800 with my car|
|[from: Berk Plathner, Germany, 11 July 2002]|
|The maximum allowable trailer weight of my car is 1300Kg(Renault Scenic 1.9dti). Would it still be possible to transport a DF 800SW with that car?
Is it necessary (in Germany) to register such a trailer? if yes, what documents are needed and what does it cost?
I need this information in order to decide whether I can eventually buy a second-hand DF800. I would be very happy too get a reply! Perhaps some one could even also tell me what are the administrative steps one has to do when buying a second-hand boat (IBS?, customs, tax, insurance etc..)
|USA, Florida: DF800, Just found the forum|
|[from: Daniel Cartailler, USA, 16 June 2002]|
|I just discovered your site, I have a DF 800 with the racing gear # 200, and I started to surf your site.
I will come back with some topics on water leakage of the hatch which is a problem in tropical weather [Florida].
Anyone around this area with DF?
|Just to say thanks for all the help ....|
|[from: Frans Loots, South Africa, 8 May 2000]|
|Just to say thanks for all the help I've received from all over Europe with Dragonfly questions.
Where I live in South Africa the nearest Dragonfly is 1000 kilometers away so the help is well appreciated.|
Arne Reher went to great effort in explaining to me how to rig up a single line reefing system.
Then I needed to know the weight of the D800 in a hurry and Danker Daamen gave it to me.
I then also met a guy on the website whose got an 800 in Ghana, Central Africa and I was able to help him rig up his boat via e-mail.
Now for my next request, How about one of the hot sailors telling us how to get the best performance out of our boats.
I have just got back from a regatta where I sailed against monohulls and was a bit disapointed with my performance.
I raced boat for boat against 38 footers and a 48 footer and easily got in front of them. However on a dead beat to windward the 38 footers (Farr 38) got away from us, pointing at least 10 /15 degrees higher and my extra speed could not make up the difference. What am I doing wrong?
Reaching I dropped them! 17 to 17,5 knots became a common speed when it was windy!
Who can help? [please reply to the forum, for all to benefit from the reply! ed]
Regards, Frans Loots, St Francis Bay, South Africa
|Water coming in through the cabin hatch|
|[from: John Leadbetter, Danemark, 23 April 2002]|
|Does anyone have an idea how to avoid water (rain & sea) comming into the cabin through the cabin hatch (the sliding part). It has been a disapointment to find, that the cabin hatch cannot avoid rain dripping into the cabin (sea in rough conditions is understandable), and hopefully someone has found a solution. Right now, I have two small buckets (10 by 10 by 10 cm) hanging in the corners, and they are able to pick up most of the water - if I remember to hang them when I leave the boat. (I can send pictures, if anyone is interested in this solution).
Thanks in advance, John
[see also Steve Bondelid's contribution to this problem in the DF1000 General Topics section; ed]
|Portsmouth Yardstick Number for DF800?|
|[from: David Vinten, UK, 11 April 2002]|
|Does anyone out there know of a Portsmouth Yardstick number for a Dragonfly 800. I have figures from MOCRA but on the Thames Estury we use PY|
|[Look here for Portsmouth numbers etc: www.ussailing.org/portsmouth/tables00/tables00mh1.htm. Bo ]|
|Weight of DF800?|
|[from: Frans Loots, South Africa, 5 April 2002]|
I SHALL BE PLEASED IF ANYONE CAN ADVISE ME WHAT THE DISPLACEMENT FIGURES OR THE WEIGHT IS OF A DRAGONFLY 800 (FIXED BEAMS).
I NEED IT TO GET A HANDICAP FOR MY BOAT SO I CAN GO AND RACE AGAINST SOME GUYS CRAWLING ALONG WITH THEIR MONO HULLS AT 5 KTS!
THANKS, FRANS LOOTS
|Dragonfly 25 - Transatlantic Crossing|
|[from: Peter, Canada, 15 Dec 2001, email@example.com]|
|I live in Nova Scotia and am currently sailing a Dick Newick Tremolino 23. I am very interested in the Dragonfly 25 demountable which was built in Canada by PC Mould company. I would like to get any information about
this model boat or similar boats in Europe.
I understand also that the Dragonfly 25 has made a transatlantic passage and would be interested in any references to articles, books or websites which deal with offshore passages by small trimarans. Thanks
|WANTED: Photo for Poster|
|[from: Alexander von Lindeiner, Germany, 9 Nov 2001, Alexander.firstname.lastname@example.org]|
|Hallo liebe Dragonfly-Freunde, ich suche ein Poster/Plakat von einem Dragonfly 800 SW. Leider sind meine eigenen Aufnahmen nicht von der Qualität um ein Poster daraus zu machen.
Bei Quorning selber gibt es wohl auch nur den bekannten Prospekt.
Wer kann helfen?|
|[Hello Dragonfly Friends, I'm looking for a Poster of a 800 SW. My own photos are unfortunately not good enough to make a poste from. At Qourning there seems to exist only the well-known brochure. Can anybody help?]|
|Having Fun with the Fantastic 800|
|[from: Wouter Blom, Netherland, 30/10/2001, email@example.com]|
|My parents recently bought an 800 sw cruising, and we are having a lot of fun sailing this fantastic boat. I'll try to send some pictures of our boat sailing on the dutch Waddensea near Terschelling, and our homeport Harlingen. [I'm looking forward to it, ed]|
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|Maximum Speed of the 800|
|[from: Bo Wetzel, 8/10/2001, FR]|
|Is it really true, that the 800 can do over 20knots ?|
|Over 20 knots!|
|[from: Reidar Harjo Johansen, Norway, 28 March 2002, firstname.lastname@example.org]|
|We used to have a Dragonfly 25 (N-342M) Three-for-two, get it?!|
It certainly made over 20 knots! We averaged 16,8 knots in the Oslo fiord over a one hour period sailing downwind. We managed 19,8 knots on 90 degrees, and 21-22 (Didn't dare to look!!!) going downwind on the lake Mjosa in Norway. Although that last thing was and "almost" foreward flip-over thing.....
(I miss that boat now!)
|We have done 16.5 knots . . .|
|[from: Alexander von Lindeiner, Germany, 23/10/2001 Alexander.email@example.com]|
|I own a 800 SW Cruising. We sailed with full size sails
on the North Sea (Wattenmeer, Langeoog) with 16,5 knots through the water (not over ground). We had a crew
of 3 rather big guys. The boat behaved very well. I would think that with a racing rig and less weight in the boat 20 knots are possible, with no waves.|
|17 knots with 800 Mark II|
|[from: Olaf Tiedtke, Germany, 3/11/2001]|
|Nur unter dem Gennaker(48m²) habe ich vorm Wind bei 6 Windstärken über 17 Knoten fahrt auf dem Log gehabt und auf Halbwindkursen liege ich bei 5 Windstärken bei 14-15 Knoten.(Photo Gallery)|
|[I exceeded 17 knots running under gennaker (48m²)- cruising chute - with Baufort 6, beam reach and to windward: 14-15kn at Beaufort 5.(see Photo Gallery)]|
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|Copyright © 2001 Bo Wetzel|
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