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Dragonfly 800 RIG/SAILS :
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Here you will find all the information about the 800's RIG and SAILS. For other specific areas choose from the options on the left.
To jump straight to a category on this page click on any of the words listed between the two red lines!
Barberhaul | Mast | Rig | Sails
Detailed Drawings for Barberhaul
[from: Bo Wetzel, France, 16 Aug 2002]
I've prepared two pages with drawings and details for the
Barberhaul and Genoa
Barberhaul and Spinnaker
The same/similar arrangement ought to be usable on any size Dragonfly.

DF920/DF800/DF1000 - More to barbehaul and spinnaker
[from: Stephen Bondelid:]
Regarding the barberhauler question and the spinnaker, the US Dragonfly website http://www.trimarans.com/1000e.htm has a picture of a DF1000 with a symmetrical spinnaker.
It isn't great for detail, but the barberhaulers act as the guy.They run all the way forward through a block on the bow of the ama, and are terminated with another block on the sheet. I just tie mine back to the eye on the foreward outer end of the aka when not in use. The barberhauler is then ready for my jib or screacher.
The same/similar arrangement ought to be usable on any size Dragonfly.
Barberhauler/Spinnaker-Guy set-up
Here is how I have my barberhaulers set up for a symmetrical spi. I have a block on the ama tip, and the barberhauler terminated at the forward end of the aka with a block. A simple knot unties quickly and I am ready for the spi with no hassle of having to attach blocks.
Please click on the photo to see it enlarged!

Thanks to John for the barberhaul pictures
[from: Keld Krogh Nielsen, Denmark, 15 Aug 2002]
Thanks to John for the pictures, and I will try to mount the barberhaul as in the picture. Whats is the advantage using them when sailing with the spinnaker?
Thanks again!!!
[The answer can be found below under SAILS!]

Barberhaul - how it's done:
[from: John Leadbetter, Denmark, 10 Aug 2002]

Please click on any of the photos to see them enlarged!
Here are a few pictures, that should show how the barberhauls are fitted.
Red sheet is the jib sheet, green is the spinnaker sheet, and the white line is the barberhaul.
When barberhauls are used for the spinnaker, the genoa sheet must be fully released.
  see also seperate User Forum pages:
Barberhaul and Genoa
Barberhaul and Spinnaker

Help with Barberhauler needed
[from: Keld Krogh Nielsen, Denmark, 6 Aug 2002]
Hi all Dragonfly owners,
Im have recently bought a Dragondly 800 SW cruising, and Im very happy with it. Now, I tried to place the Barberholers but I must have done something wrong! Can anyone show me on pictures or drawing how to rig them top the boat?
Thanks for a nice Forum!!!!!
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How to use mast rotation preventer?
[from: Nille Svensson, Sweden, 15 Aug 2006]
Hi, New DF800 owner here.
I just wonder if someone could explain the strategy for using the mast rotation preventer.

Where do I find a bolt for the
[from: Anders Lindskog, Norway, 5 May 2003, anderslindskog@c2i.net]
Rigging bolt
On a DF 800 the roopes that come out at the bottom of the mast around a wheel. The wheels are held in place by a bolt with the diameter 8,8 mm and a total length of 36 mm.
Where can I find such a bolt?
I have checked a lot of dealers in Norway and Sweden and nobody has this dimension.
Thanks in advance.
[I think you will get it from Quorning Boats, if you can't find it anywhere else. Bo]

How do you lower the mast down?
[from: Bert Meeus, Belgium, 22 Aug 2002]
Is there anybody who could tell me some guidelines for lowering the mast down (opposite of stepping the mast) on my Dragonfly 800 MKII?
Thanks in advance.
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Re: Info/photos for retro fit furler system for DF800 needed
[from: Nille, Sweden, 11 Oct 2006]
On my boat the jib halyard exits the mast on the side to a dedicated winch and a cleat fitted on the mast. However, the jib snags sometimes on the winch when tacking so im thinking of finding a better solution.

Info/photos for retro fit furler system for DF800 needed
[from: Paul Erb, USA, 6 Oct 2006]
Would appreciate any information/photos related to a retro fit furler system for DF800. I would like to retain the below-deck drum, if possible, so as not to recut sails. I understand most new furlers/foils will require a jib halyard in place of the locking system.
How is this halyard arranged and tensioned so as not to restrict mast rotation?
Appreciate any info.

Clam cleat for the 2nd reef / Cunningham
[from: Paul Erb, USA, 20 Mar 2006]

Please click on the photo to see it enlarged!
Finally got around to put an open-type Clam cleat on the side of the boom for the 2nd reef / Cunningham. I had previously been using a "stopper" knot, but it would jam hard under the pulling force of the Cunningham. Not a good situation if you require the 2nd reef and want an easy transition! (See photo) Put the clam cleat just above the fairlead for the reefing line, then tilt it slightly up at the end away from the exit hole. The reef line will sit nicely in the cleat when used as cunningham and it will still have a fair lead angle when used as originally intended. Do make sure that the attachment screws for the cleat don't bite into any of the lines inside the boom.
Cheers, Paul Erb, DF800 #235, "Trigger", Houston, Texas, USA

Details needed about roller reefing on DF800
[from: Jan-Christoph Voss, Germany, 27 Dec 2005]
es würde mich freuen, wenn mir jemand Daten über die Rollanlagenhersteller der dgf 800 mit Fallenschloss senden könnte. vielen Dank im voraus
[Hello, I would be pleased if somebody could give me details about the manufacturer of the roller reefing for the DF800. Thank you in advance.]

[from: Jean Philippe, Switzerland, 5 Dec 2005]
I have installed a bowsprit (carbon tube ex-windsurf mast) removable sliding for and aft on the deck (clew position from normal position is one extra meter). The end of the tube is held in position with one cable down to the standard fitting to pull the boat on the trailer, plus two adjustable lines to the forward end of the floats (not shown in the photos).
Pictures shows the two aluminium parts that holds the bowsprit on the deck, its retracted but will slide forward and fill the available space, a pin goes in the first part to hold it in place. Also pictures of the end fixture on which the bobstay attach and the block for the line that holds the sail plus the side lines to the floats.

Please click on any of the photos to see them enlarged!

Re: Barberhaulers, lazy jacks & spinnaker for singlehanding
[from: Paul Erb, USA, 18 Sep 2005]
Congratulations on becoming a Dragonfly Sailor! --
1) On my DF 800 the lazy jack system is capable of supporting the boom. Two lines extend from the spreaders down to small blocks. A single line is reeved through the blocks and through the boom in two places to form the cradle for the sail. This line goes to a "clam" cleat, where it can be adjusted so that the lazy jacks directly support the boom off the deck as the sail is lowered. I assumed this was the standard system? Anyhow, it works very well. Before lowering the main, take up slack in the lazy jacks and fix in the clam cleat. Lower the main, attach the main halyard to the end of the boom. Top up the boom, then slack off the lazy jacks again to take side pressure off the rolled up sail.
2) Regarding the spinnaker, you have certainly made an in depth study of the system for a symmetrical spinnaker. I venture to guess that no one has thought so hard about it in quite awhile! For the last few years, I think most trimarans are fitted with asymmetrical spinnakers using a bow pole. This eliminates many of the issues you raised. it is a much more powerful set up. I would recommend you just run the spinnaker system "by the book" for now, until you can upgrade to a larger asymmetrical spinnaker setup. In general, spinnaker handling is much easier with an "ATN" sock which slides down over the spinnaker from the masthead and controls it neatly. This can work with symmetrical or asymmetrical sail. Website is as follows: "http://www.atninc.com/sleeve.html" This is a more effective solution than consuming deck or tramp space with a horizontal launcher. By the way, the previous owner of my boat reported he did set the spinnaker single handed. He used the ATN sleeve and an autopilot. I am not so adventurous. I like to have 3 aboard for spinnaker work in any breeze over 10 knots, or at least two in light air. If you try it single handed, then I recommend plenty of sea room and only lighter winds.

Barberhaulers, lazy jacks & spinnaker for singlehanding
[from: Lars Kjøller, Denmark, 15 Sep 2005]
I’m the happy owner of an 800SW (no. 160) recently purchased. As such, I would like to ask for a bit of advice.
1) I have had no problem in mounting the barberhaulers as described in the user’s manual. However, it seems to me, that by combining the barberhauler for both the jib and the spi, you have to carry the (weight) burden of the twinblock which also needs to be hauled in (if you use it for the jib) and out (if you use it for the spi). A separate barberhauler for both the jib and the spi seems more logical to me. Granted, you are burdened with an extra line in the cockpit, but on the other hand the weight of the block (which does matter in light wind) is less on both the jib sheet and the! spi sheet with separate barber haulers. Furthermore, you should be able to find a more correct angle for the jib sheet barber hauler than the standard set up gives. Any comments on this? – has anyone tried to change the standard set-up?
2) From previous experience, I have found lazy jacks to be at great help in controlling the mainsail when lowering – especially when singlehanding. Now – a proper lazy jack system is not very difficult to install, but it needs either a topping lift or a fixed boom-vang to work (topping lift and lazy jacks cannot be combined, as this will snag the mainsail every time it is raised). Has any tried to fit either of these, or is there another solution which can control the mainsail and make it easier to lower, fold and stow singlehanded?
3) Flying a spinnaker is wonderfully easy compared to a keel boat. However, taking it down requires a trip across the trampoline to the ama in order to get hold of the sheet. This works beautifully! if you are at least 2 on board, and you also have the benefit of a good platform in the lee of the mainsail when lowering. If, on the other hand, you are singlehanding, and for safety reasons would like to stay in the cockpit, you are in trouble. As far as I see, there are 2 solutions which may work:
A) Lowering the spinnaker into the cabin (or a bag set into the hatch) inside the stays. This is done in a number of smaller keelboat classes, e.g. the H-boat and it works very well. In comparison to a (narrow) keel-boat this will require a downhaul in the spinnaker if you have to do it alone, for example a line fixed in the middle of the spi’s bottom leech. This probably could work and it would have the benefit of one being able to lower the spi in the lee of the mainsail. Setting it again might require you to haul the sheets and halyard around the forestay and reconnecting to the spi if required (according the new angle of the wind).
B) Installing a spinnaker “chute” i.e. a vertical “sock” and using a downhaul from the middle of the spinnaker to haul it into the chute. The Dragon uses a spinnaker chute – albeit set into the foredeck - and it seems to work well. The Dragon spinnaker though, is only half the size. On the other hand, I have seen Paul Elvström recommend a spinnaker chute for a 1/4-tonner which has a slightly larger size spi than a Dragonfly. The benefit will be that you do not have to haul the sheets and halyard around the forestay to accommodate a new wind angle and that the spinnaker will always be ready to be easily set – on the other hand you will have to lower the spinnaker without the benefit of having it in the lee of the other sails – this might be a handful if you are alone. Has anyone experimented with this?

Re: Supplier for DF800 roller reefing?
[from: Paul Erb, USA, 16 Aug 2005]
Dear Mr Erb,
We have in the later years used Profurl basic system type "S" on the DF800. Today we use Facnor, but obviously other brands can be used as well.
But, for these "normal" type furling systems, you have to install a halyard in the mast. In the deck you can either choose to make a bigger hole for this new drum, as it is bigger, or, if you do not want this, you can extend your existing forestay with a stainless chain plate, so you put the drum above deck level. These are the two options.
It will be cheaper for you to buy this locall! y, but we can of course also supply this - if you want a price, please let us know.
In case you decide to do this yourself, you can use the length of your existing forestay to make it exactly the same.
Best regards, Jens Quorning, QUORNING BOATS ApS

Supplier for DF800 roller reefing?
[from: Chris Hobday, UK, 12 Aug 2005]
I broke my genoa roller reefing on my 800 last week. Can anyone suggest a supplier for a new one and what lenght it should be. Thanks Chris

Rig measurements for DF800 needed
[from: Joao Sousa, Portugal, 31 May 2005]
Anybody can send me the Rig facts (measurements) for Dragonfly 800 ?
Main sail luff lengh, main sail foot lengh, forestay heigth, main sheet distance from mast, roof top heigth above booms.
I need URGENT reply.... jpedro_sousa@hotmail.com

Fixing backstays to release the cockpit winches
[from: John Leadbetter, Denmark, 9 Oct 2003]
(see my question below from 11 Aug 2003)
A possible solution that has worked very well for us. The 3 pictures explains it all - any questions - please let me know.
Please click on the photo to see it enlarged!

to Anders Lindskog, questions re bowsprit
[from: Frans Loots, South Africa, 13 Mar 2003]
The bobstay runs from the end of the bowsprit to the trailer towing-eye.
The angle is not ideal and it would perhaps be better to fit a special eye just above the waterline if you can get inside the bows to bolt it on.
The side stays run to the original eyes on the bow of each ama.
I only drilled through the hull, just above the deck to hull joint and bolted the windsurfer universal joint on. The f/g lay-up seems pretty thick and I fitted a large nylon washer on the outside.
Good luck.
P.S. Got my DF800 up to 20.5 kts a few times last weekend beam reaching with jib and 2 reefs. Windspeed 30 to 35 kts.

More question for Frans Loots ref bowsprit
[from: Anders Lindskog, Norway, 26 Feb 2003]
Some questions abaout using a surfingmast as bowspirit.
1. Do you fasten the bobstay att the end of the pole or halfway out?
3. Do you use the original eye for the bobstay, or have you fitted a lover eye closer to the waterline?
2. Do you use the original eyes on the amas or have you fitted extra eyes?
3. Did you only drill a hole in the boat, or did you make some kind off fitting to spread the loads?

Re: Question by Anders Lindskog / DF800 bowsprit
[from: Frans Loots, South Africa, 10 Dec 2002]
Oops, my boat is a fixed beam D800. On a folding boat I would imagine that you should use snapshackles on the side stays of the bowsprit to make it easy when packing up the boat. What also works is to lead the side stays from the bowsprit end to the ama bows and then to the back of the boat. You can then pull the pole and kite sideways for sailing at deeper angles. I must say I find it a bit of a pain if you sail with novice crew. The rig I had earlier decribed is about as basic as you can get.
Beside that, having a bowsprit makes your bout look super fast even when it is tied up in the dock. Also watch the other boats keep clear of you on the start line!!!!!!!!!!!
I also suppose you can use it as an icebreaker in northern Europe right now?
Have fun, Frans Loots, all the way from St Francis Bay in sunny South Africa.

Question to Frans Loots' bowsprit
[from: Anders Lindskog, Norway, 6 Dec 2002]
Hello Frans
If I make a bowspirit of a surfing mast as you suggest, do I have to loosen the sidestays when I fold the boat or does the bowspirit just rise?

Fitting a Bowsprit
[from: Frans Loots, South Africa, 8 Nov 2002]
In reply to Matts Johansson.The easiest and least expensive way to fit a bowsprit is in fact to fit one with side stays.
This is how you do it:
You aim your DF800 at a boardsailor who has a mast in the colour which would look good on your DF800. Then you run him down! Make sure you break his mast. Then you go and visit him to say you are sorry. Before you leave, ask him if you can have the broken mast and universal joint. If he says yes, cut the mast down to about 1,5 meters. Dill a small hole in the bow of the boat to bolt the universal joint onto the boat. You then run two side stays to the amas and a bobstay down to the towing eye. Use a snapshackle on the bobstay. This enables the pole to stow upright when mooring the boat. Rig two thin lines to either side of the pulpit to keep the pole level. You also need to rig a spinnaker tackline to the tip of the bowsprit. Prefably a two-part tackle to make adjustments easy.
Thats it.
If you want to you can make the side stays adjustable for deep running. Should you be unable to hit a boardsailor just go to a keen one. They all have lots of broken masts at home. Ask his wife, she would be quite happy to give you a broken one.
Have fun! Frans Loots, St Francis Bay, South Africa.

Fitting Bowsprit to DF800
[from: Mats Johansson, Sweden, 29 Oct 2002]
Is there any experience about fitting a bowsprit on the DF-800? Preferably a system without sidestays.

Fixing backstays to release the cockpit winches
[from: John Leadbetter, Denmark, 11 Aug 2002]
Has anyone mounted Easylock (or other) in order to fix the backstays when tightened, in order to use the winches for other purposes? Explanations, pictures or good ideas would be helpfull.
Thanks in advance, John

How much does a new rig cost for a 800?
[from: Marten Hetta, Sweden, 10 Nov 2001, marten.hetta@njv.slu.se]
Does anybody know approximately the price (excluding the sails) in Euro?

Reefing system for Dragonfly 800
[from: Frans Loots, South Africa, 26 Nov 2001, floots@pennypinchers.co.za]
I bought a secondhand 800 but the boat had no reefing system. I would like to fit a SINGLE LINE reefing system and would really appreciate it if someone out there could e-mail or fax me how to rig it up.
Thanks in advance, Frans Loots. Sunny South Africa.
[Arne Reher told me he would get in touch with Frans and send him the reguired info. Thank you Arne!]
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Re: Detailed sailplan for a squarehead-main for DF800 ?
[from: Paul Erb, USA, 11 Jun 2005]
Neil Pryde USA designed a nice square top main for my Dragonfly 800. Your local Neil Pryde loft should be able to access the design from them. The sail was manufactured in their China loft. We chose Dacron "radial" sailcloth, which was much more affordable than the laminates, and I believe it will hold up well.

Detailed sailplan for a squarehead-main for DF800 ?
[from: Sepp Lerchenmueller, Austria, 6 Jun 2005]
I need a new main for my 800SW-Cruising (#261). Has anyone a detailed sailplan for a squarehead-main and/or tips about good sailmakers for Dragonflies?

Re: What size of asymetric spinaker on DF800 racing?
[from: Paul Erb, USA, 16 Apr 2005]
Yes, you need a bowsprit. There is a factory kit, which is a good idea. Be certain to install the factory box fitting, otherwise you will punch through the fibreglass stem of your boat with the existing bow fitting. I recently had two custom Asymmetrics made for my DF 800 cruising, one 3/4 oz (max) and one smaller 1.5 oz . Both were made by Neil Pryde. Both sails were designed by my local Neil Pryde loft (Cameron Sails here in Houston) in conjunction with Neil Pryde USA, located in NE, I believe. Both sails are beautifully shaped. Your local Neil Pryde rep should be able to help you in cooperation with the NE office. If you intend to fly the kite in much wind or shorthanded, go for a "spinnaker sock" kit to control it during sets and douses.

What size of asymetric spinaker on DF800 racing ?
[from: Bill Kinkel, USA, 15 Apr 2005]
I would like to put a asymetric spinaker on my 800SW racing, What size should this be? do I need to add a bow sprit? How should it be cut? I want light wind speed. Does anyone have experience with this, do you recomend a regular spinaker? Should I consider a geniker instead. Please help. Thanks

Use of light wind Genua
[from: Anders Olhans, Sweden, 5 Jun 2004]
I have a std DF800 fixed wing (nr136) which I am very happy with.
Does anyone have some experience with the light wind genua (approx 20sqm) that Elvstrom sold with the early boats. I have one equipped with small Harken furler (very neat). I have tried a few times hoisting it either with the clew at the normal bow ring or out at my bowsprit (1.4 m).
Any idea of in what angles / wind to use this for optimum performance? Sheeting? Barberhaul or other system?
Thanks for any experience.

Re: Experience with a mainsail furling system ?
[from: Sepp Lerchenmüller, Austria, 12 May 2004]
Att. to Raymond Ttess, asking for experience in a main-reefing-system: Just have a look at the FOR SALE page for DF800/sails. There is a Hi-Low-Reefer-System inkl. main for sale.

Experience with a mainsail furling system ?
[from: Raymond Ttess, Sweden, 12 May 2004]
Experience with a mainsail furling system ? Erfahrung mit einem Roll-Reffsystem?
I intend to use a reefing system like "Hi-low reefer" (man. John Mast DK) or similar ? with a DF800 static wings/1989.
Does somebody have any experience in sailing in sense of handling, performance, Pro's and Con's... ?

Ich möchte ein Reffsystem für meinen DF800 static wings / 1989 einsetzen.
Hat jemand Erfahrung in Hinblick auf Leistungseinbuße, Handhabung, Vor- und Nachteile... ?

DF800 jib-hook bends under pressure
[from: John Leadbetter, Denmark, 2 Feb 2003]
jibhookWe put so much pressure on our jib, so that the jib-hook (picture) bends. When this happens, it is virtually impossible to lower the jib without climbing the mast. Has anyone else had this problem and knows of a solution - or does anyone know where to get a new replacement part, so I can try a new one if the old one is just worn out.

Correct Batten Tension on Main Sail?
[from: Philippe Damour, Germany, 25 Oct 2002]
I have a second hand DF800 Mark2 from 1988 with still the original mainsail. I suppose the batten have lost stiffness over time because the profile of my sail is quite deep (concave). Could people having good experience in racing indicate how flat should the mainsail stay! I got the impression that the top of the sail has to remain quite flat in all wind situation ( which means new stiff and well tensioned top battens) and the curvature of the bottom should be controled mainly by the tension on the boom (moderate tension of the batten). Is non constant batten stiffness necessary?
Thanks in advance.

Measurements for Sails:
[from: Dr Dragonfly, 25 Oct 2002]
Sepp Lerchmueller requested the sail measurements for the cruising and the racing version of the DF800. Here are the current measurements of the sails:
Main Sail: Luff (vorliek):10.2m; Leech (Achterliek):10.25m; Foot (Unterliek): 2.9m (22.5m²)
Genoa: Luff (vorliek):8.6m; Leech (Achterliek):7.95m; Foot (Unterliek): 3.4m (13.5m²)
Main Sail: Luff (vorliek):11.2m; Leech (Achterliek):11.2m; Foot (Unterliek): 2.9m (26m²)
Genoa: Luff (vorliek):9.07m; Leech (Achterliek):8.58m; Foot (Unterliek): 3.4m (14.5m²)
Please note these are only the measurements for the current Dragonlfy 800! Older boats have different measurements because of changes in the rig etc.!
Before ordering a new sail for your boat measure the old one or give it to the sailmaker, so that he can measure it!

Measurements of Sails required
[from: Sepp Lerchenmuller, Austria, 13 Oct 2002]
Wer kann mir den Segelplan des aktuellen DF800SW (sowohl Cruising als auch Racing) zur Verfügung stellen? Alle Standardsegel, Groß, Fock und asym. Spi. Was ich brauche, sind die entscheidenden Maße für den Segelmacher.
[Who can tell me the sail plan for the current DF800 SW (Cruising and Racing)? I need the measurements for a sailmaker to make a main, genoa and asym. spi.]

Advantage of using Barberhaul with Spi
[from: John Leadbetter, Denmark 20 Aug 2002]
Answer to: What is the advantage of using them (barberhauls) when sailing with the spinnaker?
Here is an explanation on how we use the spinnaker and barberhauls without a spinnaker pole:
The spinnaker is hoister from the leeward net, and the leeward barberhaul is fully released, and the windward barberhaul is fully tightened. When running from the wind, we release the windward barberhaul about 1 to 1,5 meters, and tighten the leeward slightly. This enables the spinnaker to fly, and really get into free air to windward. A jibe in lighter wind we just do with the both barberhauls released 1,5 meters, however in strong winds we tighten both barberhauls, and adjust the sheets to the same length (the spinnaker will then be centered to the boat), and the helmsman must steer into the middle of the spinnaker – and the main can be jibed very easily. In very strong winds, the jibe must be carried out at full speed, where the pressure on the main is the lightest. On the new course, the new leeward barberhaul is then released, and the windward adjusted according to wind angle. When dropping the spinnaker, a crewmember takes hold of the leeward spinnaker sheet, and the windward sheet is fully released. (releasing the windward sheet fully, is the most important part – ensure that the sheet can run freely beforehand). The bottom part of the spinnaker is gathered, and the halyard is released, and the spinnaker is taken into a bag on the leeward net.

Square-top mainsail for DF800 from Sweden!
[from: Anders Lindskog, Norway, 19 June 2002]
Answer to Kenny:
Gransegel in Stockholm makes very good square-top mains for DF 800. You find them at www.gransegel.se

Square-top mainsail for DF800?
[from: Kenny Poulsen, Denmark, 16 June 2002]
Does anyone have experiences with square-top mainsails for DF800 ? Can anybody recommend a sailmaker for square top main in Europe ?

Sail Size for 800 Cruising
[from: John Leadbetter, Denmark, 29 March 2002, john.leadbetter@softdesign.dk]
Hi, Great initiative with this forum - I will post the link on the Danish forum to get the word out.
Can anyone help with the P (mast) and L (boom) measurements of a standard 800 SW cruiser mainsail.
Thanks in advance
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