How to run new swing wing lines

including Amas (Floats), Akas (Beams) , Swing Wing system and all other hull related issues.
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Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

How to run new swing wing lines

Post by Paul »

The swing wing lines are quite worn on my 800 and I want to replace them, the recommended rope is 8mm spectra and the length in the owners manual is 11.5 metres, I assume that is the total length for both lines or 5.25 metres per line? What is the best way to run the new lines? I usually "mouse" new halyards by stitching the old and new ends together and then wrapping them in masking tape then pull the new line through the sheaves. Is this the way to do it? Any suggestions from those who have done it appreciated.
tpaliwoda
Posts: 215
Joined: Fri 03 Nov 06, 3:05
Your Country: USA, Raritan YC, Perth Amboy, New Jersey

Post by tpaliwoda »

I do believe it is one single line and not two.
I know one end terminates on the amma on a pad eye fitting. The other I think, terminates on a block.

Just feed it through following the existing lines. I usually replace mine every three years. Spectra or better line.
Ted Paliwoda
D'Fly 1000 ; HN #1
Nice Tri
Raritan YC, Perth Amboy, NJ, USA
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

You are right Ted, each line is an endless line but I was wondering if I need 2 lengths of 8mm line each 11.5 meters long as per the rope diagram in the owner manual or if the length of both lines is 11.5 meters.
I will start with one 12 metre length of 8mm spectra and mouse it though the sheaves and blocks, if there is around 6 metres left over I have answered my question. If not I will need another 12 meters. Thanks for the reply.

paul
MJF
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed 07 Apr 10, 20:51
Your Country: UK, Macclesfield / Cheshire

Post by MJF »

Paul
How did it go? Any top tips?
I have to do mine shortly and am keen to avoid pitfalls
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

Havn't replaced the swing wing lines yet, will try and get around to it this weekend and will post the result on the forum. Is your Suzuki 6 hp a 4 stroke or 2? The conditions here are generally short waves around half a metre, hence the preference for the 8hp 4 stroke. There is an inspection hatch on the bottom of the outboard mount on the stern of the boat. When I unscrewed it I was surprised to find there was no backing plate, just nuts and washers which had been pulled into the fibreglass by the weight of the old motor. There was some cracking around the bolt holes, so I removed the 8 nuts bolts and washers and filled the bolt holes with thickened epoxy, then glassed the whole inside using double bias cloth and epoxy resin. I have glued a piece of 20 mm ply as a backing plate to the inside of the motor mount and redrilled the bolt holes and refastened the outboard bracket. Should now handle the 42 kilo weight of the 8 hp 4 stroke. Lucky I checked the motor mount, would hate to have the the new motor drop off!~
MJF
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed 07 Apr 10, 20:51
Your Country: UK, Macclesfield / Cheshire

Post by MJF »

Its a 6hp 4 stroke.
You now have me worried about the mount, another job to add to the list!
Fun to access no doubt through the rear locker!
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

Definitely worth checking the mount for a backing plate, the Honda weighs 42 kilos and I'm guessing your Suzuki won't be much less. There is a round inspection hatch installed on the bottom of my mount so it was easy to access. You may be able to take a digital photo from the storage compartment which will show what's there? Good luck.

Paul
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

replacing swing wing lines

Post by Paul »

We replaced the swing wing lines today, used 2 lengths of 8mm spectra, each line 11 meters long. That leaves around 1.2 metres in the cockpit on each side for wrapping around the winch drum.
It was quite straightforward, so here is the sequence we used.
1. untie the end secured to the eye bolt on the inside of the float. Cut the end square if it is ragged. The other end exits the end of the REAR ama and is likely knotted.

2. Sew the end of the new line to the end of the old. (the one that was attached to the eye bolt on the pontoon) Use good strong whipping thread and a sailmakers needle. Make sure it is really secure, you don't want it to come apart inside the ama!! Also make sure that the end of the line is pretty round with no melted lumps of the outer covering -- the new line has to fit through a hole about 9mm round in the ama inboard end.

3. Spray join with silicon lubricant or similar to make easing the join through sheaves and holes easy.

4. SLOWLY pull the old line through the sheave box in the cockpit whilst a helper feeds the new line in from under the boat.

5. Now start to pull the old line from where it is knotted on the inside of the forward ama, keep pulling the old line through until the new one appears. Knot the new line and the job is done.
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

In my description of how to run new swing wing lines I made a mistake in saying the "other end exits the end of the inboard FRONT ama and is likely knotted". That is wrong, the other end exits the end of the REAR ama and is likely knotted.
Sorry for the confusion.


Paul

>>>>I've corrected it in your above message! [Bo]<<<<
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