Mk 2 centre board

including Amas (Floats), Akas (Beams) , Swing Wing system and all other hull related issues.
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AndyMonty
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue 14 Sep 10, 16:02
Your Country: UK, Devon

Mk 2 centre board

Post by AndyMonty »

Hi,

My Mk2 (no 91) has a problem with the centre-board down-haul. The board is splitting where the line passes into the board before being knotted off. This is makng the board hard to get down as it is rubbing on the centre board case.

I need to get access to this part of the board in order to bolt through and glue it. I imagine the two options are to drop it out from below or to take off the centre board case top.

The pivot bolt looks as if it is below water level so I guess I am going to have to dry out to do this job, but any advice would be gratefully received.

Cheers,

Andy
lercherlsepp
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat 04 Nov 06, 23:34
Your Country: Austria

Re: Mk 2 centre board

Post by lercherlsepp »

Andy, no chance to come to the down-haul-access from the case top - it´s not enough space for Your hands. The pivot-bolt is easy to remove, when craned the boat, und You can lower the centre-board. I just did it last autumn without problems.
AndyMonty wrote:Hi,

My Mk2 (no 91) has a problem with the centre-board down-haul. The board is splitting where the line passes into the board before being knotted off. This is makng the board hard to get down as it is rubbing on the centre board case.

I need to get access to this part of the board in order to bolt through and glue it. I imagine the two options are to drop it out from below or to take off the centre board case top.

The pivot bolt looks as if it is below water level so I guess I am going to have to dry out to do this job, but any advice would be gratefully received.

Cheers,

Andy
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

centreboard downhaul lines frayed

Post by Paul »

The downhaul line on my centreboard is badly worn through to the inner core where it is tensioned on the rope jammer. Is the only way to replace the downhaul line for the centreboard, to crane the boat? Is it possible to have a diver remove the board in a couple of metres of water, replace the downhaul line and put the board back in the case? This would be a far cheaper way to do the job if it is possible. Any thoughts on this appreciated.
AndyMonty
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue 14 Sep 10, 16:02
Your Country: UK, Devon

Post by AndyMonty »

Hi Paul,
My boat has a perspex hatch in the top of the board case which when unscrewed gives you just enough room to reach down to the top of the board where the line is fixed. Certainly a lot easier than dropping the board out.
Hope that helps,
Cheers,
Andy

Please click on any of the photos to see them enlarged!

Image Image
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

Thanks Andy, do you have a picture of the perspex hatch on your boat, can you do simple drawing of the way the two ropes are attached to the board with some measurements? If I can arrange a system like yours to access the ropes I will do it, much easier than dropping the mast and paying a crane to lift it. Thanks for your reply, there's a resident crocodile in our marina and I wasn't all that comfortable about attempting to dive on t boat and get the board out that way!

Paul
AndyMonty
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue 14 Sep 10, 16:02
Your Country: UK, Devon

Post by AndyMonty »

Hi Paul,
I'm not sure how to post photos so have asked Bo.
Cheers,
Andy
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

Thanks Andy, Bo will advise you how to do it. Look forward to seeing what you did.

cheers,

Paul

[I've added the photos to Andy's post, see above; Bo]
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

The photos appear to show the perspex inspection window about 4 inches back from the compression post Andy, and about 10 inches long? Would that be about right? Guess you removed the table top to cut the access hole, if so why not just remove the table top to replace the downhaul rope every 6 or so years and retain the nice varnished table top?

cheers,

Paul
AndyMonty
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue 14 Sep 10, 16:02
Your Country: UK, Devon

Post by AndyMonty »

Hi Paul,
Sorry for the slow reply- hope you have solved your problem by now (and didn't encounter the resident croc).
Simple answer to your question re the hatch- I didn't do it and had assumed all DF's had one!
Cheers,
Andy
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

Hi Andy,
I am planning on taking the table top off this week and trying to reach the downhaul rope that way, your boat's previous owner must have added the perspex window as it is not an original piece of equipment. The resident croc is active at present so do not want to get in the water at the marina! On another note, I sometimes have trouble tacking the boat in a chop, end up "in irons" and either have to reverse rudder and try to steer her backwards until I can get forward momentum, or backwinding the jib to get her around. Any suggestions on tacking in choppy conditions appreciated. In smooth water she goes through 90 degrees no problem. Maybe easing the main off and backwinding the jib at the same time would help??\

Cheers,

Paul
jean louis
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue 30 Sep 08, 16:05
Your Country: dinard britanny france

Perpex window for centerboard inspection

Post by jean louis »

Paul wrote:Hi Andy,
I am planning on taking the table top off this week and trying to reach the downhaul rope that way, your boat's previous owner must have added the perspex window as it is not an original piece of equipment. The resident croc is active at present so do not want to get in the water at the marina! On another note, I sometimes have trouble tacking the boat in a chop, end up "in irons" and either have to reverse rudder and try to steer her backwards until I can get forward momentum, or backwinding the jib to get her around. Any suggestions on tacking in choppy conditions appreciated. In smooth water she goes through 90 degrees no problem. Maybe easing the main off and backwinding the jib at the same time would help??\

Cheers,

Paul
Bonsoir ,
I own a MK2 DF 800 N° 88 , and there is exactly the same window at the same place , so I think it is genuine equipment.
I have changed the two ropes ( up and down ) through this window at the mooring.
It is a test of skill and perseverance !
Kenavo J.Louis
AndyMonty
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue 14 Sep 10, 16:02
Your Country: UK, Devon

Post by AndyMonty »

Paul,
I can't claim any expertise with the DF800 wrt to tacking in chop as I have only had her for a year. My experience with A-Class cats supports your suggestions of easing the main as you go round, plus the other things such as looking for a flat spot to tack, getting up plenty of speed before going round, easing progressively into the turn to avoid loosing too much speed. Backwinding the jib should help if you are really stuck, and making sure you tighten it as soon as you are round (before the main) should help. The other thing I found with the A was having the mast raked back made it much easier to get stuck in irons, don't know if that is the case with the DF.

Interesting to hear that the perspex hatch is a standard feature on Mk2, Kenavo, I thought the workmanship looked a bit good for an amateur fix. It is a tight squeeze inside the case isn't it? I developed an extra joint in my wrists fixing the split in my centre-board in situ.

Andy
Paul
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu 28 Jan 10, 7:46
Your Country: Australia, Cairns

Post by Paul »

We took the table top off and were able to fix the problem of the frayed downhall, tight but doable. As to tacking in a chop, we just sailed 70 miles in 15 - 20 knots on the nose and did many tacks, (before the pivot bolt on the forward port ama let go, see my post under DF 800 hull issues dated Sat 27th August) easing the main as we went through the tack and backwinding the jib did the trick. Thanks for your input Andy.

Paul
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