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Centerboard downhaul line replacement

 
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Double Horizon



Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 418
Location: USA

Centerboard downhaul line replacement   Posted: Tue 15 Sep 09, 3:18    Reply with quote

If you need to replace the downhaul line it is an easy job. It helps if you or an assistant have thin arms (estimated -- the interior space is only about 2.5-inches or 63mm wide). The water level inside the centerboard trunk is not anywhere near the top, so you do not need to be concerned about small wakes/waves, assuming you are working in harbor conditions. Total time (using an electric drill-driver on the screws) was about 1 hour:

With boat in the water:
1) Remove Phillips-head screws from beneath table, lift and rotate table to the port side and support it level with a pile of cushions or other objects on the seat. (Remove screws only -- not bolts).
2) Lower centerboard enough to insert a 2x4-inch wood board between the front of the centerboard and the front of the centerboard trunk. Let up the centerboard slowly until the wood board is wedged in place. This board should be about 3 feet (1m) long, and oriented so the 4-inch dimension is fore-aft. This will hold the centerboard down without further effort, so you can access the downhaul attachment point.
3) Your replacement line should be made from low stretch core (spectra or dyneema) with polyester braided cover. Diameter 8mm or 5/16", length 35 feet. Attach replacement line to cockpit end of old line with tape, and pull it through into the centerboard area.
4) Cut old line off the centerboard and tie new line, using a type of knot that will not pull out. (I used a bowline).
5) Lower centerboard further (using new line) to release wood board, then remove wood board to test centerboard operation/clearances.
6) Replace table.

Note: The screws are spaced very close to the centerboard trunk so it will aid access if you have an offset angle drive attachment for your drill/driver.

I was living with a worn and hardened downhaul line because I thought this job would be difficult, but it was easy.
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Larry - DF-1200 Double Horizon


Last edited by Double Horizon on Wed 12 Oct 11, 4:36; edited 1 time in total
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Mika Harju



Joined: 02 Nov 2006
Posts: 196
Location: Finland, Turku

Re: Centerboard downhaul line replacement   Posted: Fri 18 Sep 09, 9:51    Reply with quote

Double Horizon wrote:
If you need to replace the downhaul line it is an easy job. It helps if you or an assistant have thin arms (estimated -- the interior space is only about 3-inches or 80mm wide). The water level inside the centerboard trunk is not anywhere near the top, so you do not need to be concerned about small wakes/waves, assuming you are working in harbor conditions. Total time (using an electric drill-driver on the screws) was about 1 hour:

With boat in the water:
1) Remove Phillips-head screws from beneath table, lift and rotate table to the port side and support it level with a pile of cushions or other objects on the seat. (Remove screws only -- not bolts).
2) Lower centerboard enough to insert a 2x4-inch wood board between the front of the centerboard and the front of the centerboard trunk. Let up the centerboard slowly until the wood board is wedged in place. This board should be about 3 feet (1m) long, and oriented so the 4-inch dimension is fore-aft. This will hold the centerboard down without further effort, so you can access the downhaul attachment point.
3) Your replacement line should be made from low stretch core (spectra or dyneema) with polyester braided cover. Diameter 8mm or 5/16", length 35 feet. Attach replacement line to cockpit end of old line with tape, and pull it through into the centerboard area.
4) Cut old line off the centerboard and tie new line, using a type of knot that will not pull out. (I used a bowline).
5) Lower centerboard further (using new line) to release wood board, then remove wood board to test centerboard operation/clearances.
6) Replace table.

Note: The screws are spaced very close to the centerboard trunk so it will aid access if you have an offset angle drive attachment for your drill/driver.

I was living with a worn and hardened downhaul line because I thought this job would be difficult, but it was easy.

How old was your downhaul line?
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Mika Harju
DF1000 Racing #8
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Double Horizon



Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 418
Location: USA

   Posted: Fri 18 Sep 09, 12:50    Reply with quote

The line I replaced was 8 years old.
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pmg2001



Joined: 15 Mar 2008
Posts: 6
Location: US, MA

very helpful   Posted: Thu 29 Jul 10, 10:52    Reply with quote

Larry,

Thanks very helpful guidance; my 9 year old downhaul line had been stiff and occassionally would slip out of its jam cleat, when it split its cover a couple of weeks ago, I used your directions to replace it w/ Endura; your directions were very clear, right on the money and made this job very easy; thanks again
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Double Horizon



Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 418
Location: USA

   Posted: Mon 12 Sep 11, 3:41    Reply with quote

One other thing -- When I replaced the line there was a wood block inside at the top of the trunk. I recently had a problem with the centerboard sticking in the raised position, so I opened the trunk and found the board was getting jammed against the turning block at the aft end of the trunk and the wood block was missing. It became clear that the purpose of the wood block is to act as a stop to prevent the CB from raising too far. I replaced the block with a new one I cut from 2x4" lumber. The block is 2.5" wide by 3.5" long by 1.5" thick. I taped it in place and applied 3M 4200 as adhesive so the CB would hold it against the underside of the table while the 4200 dried. It seems to have solved the problem.
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Steve B.



Joined: 02 Nov 2006
Posts: 204
Location: USA, Whidbey Island WA

Centerboard upper stop   Posted: Tue 13 Sep 11, 0:07    Reply with quote

As the third owner of my DF1000, I never saw an upper stop, even though the boat was only 5 years old when I purchased it.

After raising the board too fast one time, I managed to punch a small crack in the front edge of the board trunk located in the head/vanity area.
It was JUST above the waterline, but during boisterous sailing we'd get water on the head floor.
It was a bear to repair what with the glass getting wet and all.
I made an upper stop for the board by screwing a couple of black vinyl 2 inch diameter pipe couplers to the underside of the table.
I placed them such that the board could come up fully without it hitting the forward end of the trunk.
Now I can pull it up as fast as I need to without worry.
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tpaliwoda



Joined: 03 Nov 2006
Posts: 215
Location: USA, Raritan YC, Perth Amboy, New Jersey

   Posted: Tue 13 Sep 11, 21:37    Reply with quote

I just took mine apart two weeks ago - because it was stuck in the up position.

I know for a fact that I do not have any type of stop bumper mounted on the under side of the table.

You can bet I will add one - piece of pressure treated 2"x4" and a little 4200 should do the trick nicely..

I also had to repair the trunk for a leak - it was on the front side, above the waterline where the fitting that holds the block is mounted.

Good suggestions!
Ted
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Ted Paliwoda
D'Fly 1000 ; HN #1
Nice Tri
Raritan YC, Perth Amboy, NJ, USA
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Steve B.



Joined: 02 Nov 2006
Posts: 204
Location: USA, Whidbey Island WA

Board upper stop   Posted: Wed 14 Sep 11, 4:51    Reply with quote

Ted,
I mounted the vinyl pipe pieces athwartships so they compressed to an oval shape, thus acting as a soft stop for the board. A couple of them with a couple of SS screws each was all it took.
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