CAD drawings available now

Mika Harju · Post by **Mika Harju** » Sun 26 Feb 12, 18:37

I have spent hours and hours to measure and draw my DF1000-8. Attached you'll find results. If anyone DF1000 owner needs AutoCad.DWG (or DXF) files let me know.

DF1000-8Dimensions.pdf
DF1000-8HullAndRig-Top.pdf
DF1000-8HullAndRig-Right.pdf
DF1000-8HullAndRig-Front.pdf
DF1000-8Folded.pdf

Baboonty · Post by **Baboonty** » Sun 04 Mar 12, 9:57

Thanks Mika , excellent job, very helpful as I'm filling a MOCRA rating application for my boat and some DF1000 specs were missing to me.

For this matter I'm wondering which is the "real" weight of my boat, as yours seems to be pretty much in the same configuration as mine, do you have some figures which can help me?

Is the sea free of ice in your country?

Olivier

betsyderek · Post by **betsyderek** » Wed 27 Jun 12, 20:33

Hi ,
I am looking to find drawings and measurements how to support the boat for trucking.No cradle. Is just the main hull under the centerboard box and under the Aka supports enough or do the amas also need support. It will travel about 1500nm.
Is Associated trucking in Washington state the people to do it ? L.A. to Anacortes.Thanks
Derek Saltspring Island Canada

tpaliwoda · Post by **tpaliwoda** » Wed 27 Jun 12, 23:24

Boat is only supported in four spots under where the cross beams attach to the main hull - Thats all
For 1500 miles - I would sail it North! a lot less trouble, at worst it will take you two weeks.
Good way to really get to know your boat!

I may have some pictures - I have your email address

Double Horizon · Post by **Double Horizon** » Thu 28 Jun 12, 4:53

You might find this image helpful. Most of the weight was on the centerboard trunk area. Other stabilization was achieved with additional supports and straps keeping it level. (It would have been less risky to have the proper cradle and support it at the corners. The straps added additional down-force that was not desirable.) It made it from Florida to Connecticut without damage.

I would allow two days to disassemble, pack and load. Add a half day for contingency. (On this boat nobody could release the forestay due to an access issue. After several hours and multiple people trying I ended up drilling a 4" access hole in the top deck between forestay and water/waste outlets with a hole saw and later filling it with a Beckson inspection port). Visit a carpet store to find used carpet that has been ripped out and discarded. Wrap with carpet and tape wherever needed to avoid scratches and chafe. You will need crane assistance, and at least one helper as crew for handling the big stuff like the mast and amas. Use poly wrap to secure the furler to the mast (not adhesive unless you line it with bubble wrap). Don't let plastic sit on the painted mast too long -- it might bubble the paint if moisture is trapped.

PS - the inspection port in the bow deck turned out to be an enhancement that was worth doing. No regrets. It provides access to the forward area ahead of the anchor locker.

tpaliwoda · Post by **tpaliwoda** » Thu 28 Jun 12, 22:59

Larry;
Great picture!

Double Horizon · Post by **Double Horizon** » Fri 29 Jun 12, 4:31

More detail -- I used two 7-foot 4x4" timbers situated cross-wise on the bed of the truck to act as a base for the amas. They were drilled with 1" holes to allow the pivot/mounting bolts to mate into the holes, which protected the bolts while the amas rode inverted, as shown in the picture, and allowed the amas to lie flat (with a layer of carpet between).

It would have been preferable to mount the center hull low, but it was too wide to allow vertical steel to support the upper deck, so the wider hull had to go up top.

The cross beams and rudder were completely wrapped in carpet and placed in the bottom bed of the truck. Zip-lock bags were used to group the hardware bits, and the bags were labeled to make assembly easier at the other end. The windsheild was removed and wrapped, and stowed inside the cabin. I also had to winterize the boat before it came north (it was tough trying to find non-toxic antifreeze in Florida in February).

Another view below... When I brought it back to Connecticut I did a major refurbishment of the boat, and replaced the red stripes with dark blue. The painted waterline was restored to be level with the water. (One more tip -- if you fly with tools as checked baggage don't bother locking the tool box, use a zip tie, because TSA will cut the lock. You can leave your tools in the boat for the return trip.)

tpaliwoda · Post by **tpaliwoda** » Fri 29 Jun 12, 22:41

Bo:
This is a great thread we have going here - can you move the past couple of posts and start a "transport" thread?

Larry - can you email the pics to Bo so you can enlarge when you open them?

Thanks
Ted

Double Horizon · Post by **Double Horizon** » Sat 30 Jun 12, 5:07

I made these pictures above larger for you, Ted.

One more note to anyone disassembling a Dragonfly -- when removing lines that run through interior passages make sure you leave "messenger" lines in the lower mast (for reefing lines) and also for the headsail furler line, and for the folding lines that go through cockpit combings for the aft crossbeams.

The 1000 (with its covered lines on the cabin top) needs even more messenger lines for the halyards and reefing lines.

Reassembly can be a real challenge without messenger lines.

Here's what the bottom of the truck looked like -- you can see the boom, rudder and cross beams wrapped in carpet. You can also see the 4x4 wood beams laid cross-wise beneath the amas.

Notice the load-stabilizing straps running vertically alongside the vertical steel supports. Those straps were attached to the stainless eyes beneath each crossbeam, using galvanized D-shackles. The carpeted hull supports needed to be as close to centerline as possible (if they're not on the non-cored section they could punch through).

One more tip -- take pictures all around the boat while it is loaded on the truck to document the condition of the boat when it departed. If there is any trucking damage or loss those pictures will come in handy.

Double Horizon · Post by **Double Horizon** » Sat 30 Jun 12, 5:37

Sorry for the thread drift, but here's what the boat looked like a few months later, after I changed the stripes and completed a major refurbishment.

Just pride getting in the way.

Steve B. · Post by **Steve B.** » Sat 30 Jun 12, 16:53

Larry,

How do you get your rudder up so high?
My line is attached to a small s.s. shackle at the top of the rudder.
I can't get much purchase with it and the rudder won't lift more than a third of the way out of the water.
It's not binding, just too heavy to lift by hand with that bad line angle.

Talk about thread drift, lol.

Double Horizon · Post by **Double Horizon** » Sat 30 Jun 12, 17:19

Steve B. wrote:Larry,

How do you get your rudder up so high?

I tie it to the middle rail. 2 or 3 wraps and a slip knot. I do the same thing on my 1200. The factory jam cleat is not used.

Also, If I recall, there was a stainless D-shackle added to the aft side of the rudder on my 1000, and the lifting block was attached there so the lift line was a double-purchase. If it's not standard to have a hole there it must have been done by a prior owner.

DRAGONFLY Trimarans User Forum

CAD drawings available now

CAD drawings available now

Dimensions to give trucker to support DF1000 for transport