Dyneema Halyards

Mast, Boom, Standing and Running Rigging, Furler System, Reefing, Barberhauler, Lazyjack etc
Post Reply
andycrawford
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue 31 Dec 13, 17:11
Your Country: United Kingdom, Poole

Dyneema Halyards

Post by andycrawford »

I have read a number of posts about damage to Dyneema main halyards. With the season just finishing, and on my last trip before the boat was taken out of the water, the outer sheath stripped at the Easylock location. Unfortunately the earlier posts have not answered the question about the best make of Dyneema to use. Does anybody have a recommendation? My second question is that the end of the halyard attached to the top of the mast has been spliced around a s/s thimble. I have noted from the other posts that people are tying the end of the halyard at this location, presumably with a bowline knot or similar. Am I correct in this assumption, or is it best to use a spliced rope? If so, is there a size of thimble to use?
Double Horizon
Posts: 440
Joined: Wed 09 May 07, 0:18
Your Country: USA

Post by Double Horizon »

The reason your cover is worn is because you are releasing the Easylock clutch while the line is under load. If you first take up the load with the winch, then release the clutch, you will not have excessive wear.

You can use a bowline or a fishermans bend, or any other type of knot that will not shake out or slip. The loads on the line are not even close to breaking strength.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
gminkovsky
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed 01 Nov 06, 19:58
Your Country: USA, Long Island Sound

Post by gminkovsky »

The reason for tying the halyard with a knot is so that you can cut off the first 15 cm every 1-2 years to prevent both point loads on the halyard and wear and tear where the halyard enters the mast.

If the cover is not completely torn you can put on additional cover over the halyard where the line goes through easy lock. You should be able to find my posts on details and pictures. Use search with my name (gminkovsky).

As far as brand of rope to use, I feel pretty strongly that any high tech low-stretch line of correct diameter will work.

My 2nd Dyneema halyard is of a less expensive brand and is holding fine!

By less expensive I mean only 3-4 dollars per foot or 10-13 dollars per meter :(((.
Stefan Kolmodin
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon 08 Nov 10, 21:50
Your Country: Sweden, Varmdo

Post by Stefan Kolmodin »

Hi Good tricks to save on these expensive lines - starting with buying it 2-3 meters too long - are:
1 When you notice substantial wear at the clutch (should take 1-3 seasons using Double Horizons tip to take off the load before releasing) you can swap ends of the halyard to get a new part of the line in the clutch.
2 Since you bought the halyard 2-3 m to long you can cut it a bit (10 cm) to move the clutch wear when due and then repeat trick 1 until the extra length is used. I block my mast top end with a figure 8 knot.
3 Not using the halyard as boom lift when not sailing, since sun and wind will wear the line down even when not sailing, by hoisting an old line as lift and stow away the halyard end from sun in the cockpit.
4 Also there has been a lot of development on clutches, now with much reduced wear on lines as well as less slip - so it could be a smart investment to replace an old clutch both to spare the expensive lines that take a lot of load and to reduce slip.
DF800R, SWE-257
Double Horizon
Posts: 440
Joined: Wed 09 May 07, 0:18
Your Country: USA

Post by Double Horizon »

If you use my method you will have no more wear at the clutch than anywhere else on the rope. It will last 10 years or more.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
andycrawford
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue 31 Dec 13, 17:11
Your Country: United Kingdom, Poole

Post by andycrawford »

Thanks for your replies. I realised that I had to take up the load on the winch, but too late to save my Halyard!! I will start again next season afresh, with your advice ringing in my ears!!
On a separate subject I have also read the posts regarding setting up swinging moorings all of which is perfectly clear. My boat will be going on a swinging mooring next season however my concern is damage to the bow of the main hull when the boat rides up on the mooring buoy in a wind over tide situation. (The buoy's are hard and made of fibre glass) I am considering making the mooring strops of a length that places the buoy between the main hull and one of the ama's such that the buoy cannot touch either bow of the main hull or ama. I have done it successfully with a catamaran that I used to own, however it had decent mooring cleats on each hull. I am not so sure of the angles from the loop at the end of the aka to which I would attach one of the strops. Does anyone else moor their boat in this way and does it work? Again advice would be appreciated.
Double Horizon
Posts: 440
Joined: Wed 09 May 07, 0:18
Your Country: USA

Post by Double Horizon »

andycrawford wrote:Thanks for your replies. I realised that I had to take up the load on the winch, but too late to save my Halyard!! I will start again next season afresh, with your advice ringing in my ears!!
On a separate subject I have also read the posts regarding setting up swinging moorings all of which is perfectly clear. My boat will be going on a swinging mooring next season however my concern is damage to the bow of the main hull when the boat rides up on the mooring buoy in a wind over tide situation. (The buoy's are hard and made of fibre glass) I am considering making the mooring strops of a length that places the buoy between the main hull and one of the ama's such that the buoy cannot touch either bow of the main hull or ama. I have done it successfully with a catamaran that I used to own, however it had decent mooring cleats on each hull. I am not so sure of the angles from the loop at the end of the aka to which I would attach one of the strops. Does anyone else moor their boat in this way and does it work? Again advice would be appreciated.
That's an interesting thought, but it will create a rather severe angle of pull and the shorter lines required would not allow much room for the mooring line to absorb shock loads in storm waves. If you have 50+ knots of wind and waves that mooring could go "bar tight".

Which model boat do you have? If you have a bow sprit you can attach a stretchy shock cord between the tip of the bowsprit and the mooring. It would stretch out a bit in a strong wind when your mooring lines are under load, but when your lines go slack it would keep your boat from overrunning the buoy.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
andycrawford
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue 31 Dec 13, 17:11
Your Country: United Kingdom, Poole

Post by andycrawford »

Hello Larry,

I have a 920 touring so with a bow sprit. I saw your posts regarding the elastic cord, but I am concerned that the buoy may be a bit heavy for the elastic. Hence my other idea.

Regards

Andy
Double Horizon
Posts: 440
Joined: Wed 09 May 07, 0:18
Your Country: USA

Post by Double Horizon »

I think you should try it. The only time the current overcomes the wind is when the wind is light. It only takes 3-10 kilos of resistance to keep the ball away. An elastic cord in 6-8mm diameter is easily capable of pulling more than that. If it ever gets much greater you probably would want the cord to break, because something is very wrong.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
gminkovsky
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed 01 Nov 06, 19:58
Your Country: USA, Long Island Sound

Post by gminkovsky »

I've been using shock cord for 12 seasons very successfully! My mooring this year consists of 2 mooring balls and a huge cumbersome amalgamation of shackles and swivels to attach all my lines. Below the mooring (through both balls) is a 5/8 inch (16 mm) chain. So this is very heavy. My 1/4 inch (6 mm) shock cord deals with it just fine. My boat is the only boat in the harbor that is not riding up on a mooring ball!
gminkovsky
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed 01 Nov 06, 19:58
Your Country: USA, Long Island Sound

Post by gminkovsky »

Here is one more idea: there is one mono in my harbor that uses the following approach to prevent bow/mooring collisions and damage: an oversized inflated tire inner tube that is attached around the mooring ball and painted in bright colors. Looks sort of like an old-fashioned life ring around the mooring ball. Don't know how long it lasts. Will see what that owner does next season!

At one point I experimented with a triangle made of plastic wire conduits and floats on each side. The idea was that this will prevent the mooring or boat from moving too close to each other. I tried it also to prevent my dinghy from getting under the engine and rudder. It worked but was extremely difficult and time consuming to set-up and store when not using...
Post Reply