Releasing the centerboard for bottom paint. How?

including Amas (Floats), Akas (Beams) , Swing Wing system and all other hull related issues.
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cogniz
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue 02 Dec 14, 4:02
Your Country: USA, Savannah, GA

Releasing the centerboard for bottom paint. How?

Post by cogniz »

Hey guys.
General updating is going well. Chose Micron CSC, re-decked everything on the cabin top, replaced the solar panel, working on shaping a new tiller and re-wired the mast.

The hull is about 85% sanded and just got the boat up off the trailer.

Now, I can't figure out how much clearance I need to get the centerboard out of the box.
I've pulled the Allen bolt out but now what? I'm leaving the trailer under the boat and the board comes down and contacts an axle. Will the board not drop parallel to the ground? Perhaps the barnacles are sticking it up?

Any guidance is, as always, greatly appreciated!

Rad
Radford Harrell
SW800 #242
cogniz
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue 02 Dec 14, 4:02
Your Country: USA, Savannah, GA

Dug a hole

Post by cogniz »

After pulling the trailer forward, I dug a trench under the CB box. Much trial and error but 24" deep did the trick.

Seems folks recommend 5/16" Dyeema to replace the line? Any comments?

FYI this has been a wonderful arm and shoulder workout.
Radford Harrell
SW800 #242
gminkovsky
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed 01 Nov 06, 19:58
Your Country: USA, Long Island Sound

Post by gminkovsky »

That seems correct. My line is 8mm. BTW, the specs say it's only a polyester line, but i know for a fact that it is Dyneema core/Polyester cover ( found out when it failed!)
cogniz
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue 02 Dec 14, 4:02
Your Country: USA, Savannah, GA

Update: Sitting pretty at the marina!

Post by cogniz »

After 6 mos on the hard in the backyard, we put Turas in the water a week ago and had a shake down cruise this past Saturday.

Some notes:
Thanks gminkovsky for setting me straight on the Dyneema line for the daggerboard. Done.

Failed to note a properly wound spool on the furler until after I pulled up the jib. That took a while to unravel and reload, with the sail on. Chalk that lesson up.

Changed oil, plugs, pump and filter on the Tohatsu 8 hp but discovered the carb was dirty (would not hold idle) about 20 feet from docking...that got my attention. Made it in fine...carb cleaning was a breeze (thanks YouTube).

Lots of line will be replaced this year. Specifically the Genoa halyard, reefing lines, furler line, and Jib sheets.

Sealed up the cabin well. No drips (re-decked everything on the cabin top, chamfered the holes and used butyl tape). But the little skylight on the foredeck still leaks...probably need a proper hatch or something. Not sure what was factory as it's just a round piece of lexan siliconed in place. With 3 little kids in the cabin, someone hit it with their head and it popped right up.

Running the reefing lines through the boom blocks (after of the gooseneck) is brutal. Fought with it for 2 hours and gave up. Used some bailing wire and whipping cord but could not get the line to make the horizontal to vertical shift around the sheave inside the boom. Considering drilling the frame out of the boom and re-riveting. Help here is welcome but from what I've read I'll need to just tough it out and keep trying...so I will.

New solar panel is charging well but both house and starter battery were End Of Life. Not a huge issue beyond expense.

Peeled off, scraped and cleaned the bilge mount for the transducer. After acetone on the deck, it adhered well and now holds mineral oil. Previous install leaked oil everywhere into the bilge.

New tiller handle took a lot of work. Had to cut it down to fit the aluminum frame, drill the holes, sand and varnish 3 coats. Bought a great cover from a woman in Florida that makes them to order..off eBay. Fast and cheap.

Also pulled almost all the wood out of the interior, sanded and varnished it, too.

New mast light and wiring. New antenna wire in mast. Old one broke while feeding in new one. Resorted to using the old vacuum string trick to get the new line in the mast.

I still need to replace the sheaves in the mast step and if possible, 3 of the 4 in the ama extend / retract blocks on the gunwale. Looking for those parts now...

Finally, sanded all the hulls and the daggerboard to the gel coat. Then loaded up 2 coats of Interlux 2000e epoxy primer. Then 4 coats of CSC.

Getting the daggerboard out was more challenging that expected. Although I was well warned on the this forum.

Thank you all for the guidance, help and wisdom you've deposited on this site. I'm truly thankful.
Radford Harrell
SW800 #242
gminkovsky
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed 01 Nov 06, 19:58
Your Country: USA, Long Island Sound

Post by gminkovsky »

fantastic!
Feel free to come to long island and do any of this on my boat :-)

looks like i am not putting my boat in the water this season...

anyway, use electricians snake to thread the line through the boom sheaves. on 920 it is easier because the sheaves are exposed. still, takes 2 people with one person carefully guiding the line around the sheave.also, do it so you go from vertical to horizontal.easier to push rope down.
cogniz
Posts: 52
Joined: Tue 02 Dec 14, 4:02
Your Country: USA, Savannah, GA

Heh...

Post by cogniz »

Good info on top down feeding. Although when I pulled the boom off the mast, I left the reefing lines inside the mast. So I'll try a few options before re-feeding down through the boom sheaves, forward into the mast then down the mast through the turn-sheaves....

And while I'd love to hit Long Island (mmm, wine country and fresh donuts), I think there is little energy left for in-depth boat projects. But hey, I'll cheer for you!

Thanks for all of your incredible guidance. No doubt you've saved me money, blood, sweat and swearing.
Radford Harrell
SW800 #242
gminkovsky
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed 01 Nov 06, 19:58
Your Country: USA, Long Island Sound

Post by gminkovsky »

for the future, leave a thin messenger line in boom or mast when you remove the boom or take out a line. saves hours of labor when you put it back together.

now just use snake to thread a messenger line, then use messenger line to thread reefing line.
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