Code 0

Mast, Boom, Standing and Running Rigging, Furler System, Reefing, Barberhauler, Lazyjack etc
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Mario
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Code 0

Post by Mario »

Is there anybody who has Code 0? on a roller? I am looking for spec., and would like to hear how it works in practice.
Valentin
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Re: Code 0

Post by Valentin »

Mario wrote:Is there anybody who has Code 0? on a roller? I am looking for spec., and would like to hear how it works in practice.
Hi Mario, I have a Code 0 on my 35 Ultimate. It that was made by Elvstrom in the same material as the new main sail and genoa, I believe it is called Genesis Black Technora with EMT (Elstrom Membrane Technology), and has an area of 75 square meters. It attaches to the tack line on bow sprit with an endless furler. I got it directly through Quorning.

Since I only got my boat at the beginning of September, I did not have a chance to use it much yet. I have only tried it in very light wind so far, and it was pretty easy to handle: It comes with an endless furler that goes back towards the cockpit, with a block attached at the far end that has an elastic to stretch the endless line system. So far, I had attached the elastic to the lifting eye at the rear beam, where I can easily grab it from the cockpit to furl and unfurl.

Handling the sail in light wind was very easy, and I could furl and unfurl it in a few seconds by hand for either gybing or taking. I have heard the suggestion that I may need to attach a line either to the bow, or use the barber haulers, to attach to the tack line loop or the furler to prevent the line from twisting rather than turning the furler, but so far, this was not necessary.

The boat speed in light wind seemed really great, but I haven't sailed it in more than 4-5 knots of true. In those conditions, I would get at least 1 knot more boat speed with the code 0 than with the genoa (and we can easily surpass true wind speed with the genoa in light wind). I can tell you more next spring when I will get to use it some more, and in a wider range of conditions.

The one thing to be aware of is that if you plan to store it rolled and folded, it will take a lot of space in your ama since you don't want to roll it tightly for that, and also only loosely fold it. If you are planning to use it for racing, you can keep the Code 0 in one ama, and the spinnaker in the other - I think that keeping both in the same will be tough, especially when you try to hoist or lower either one.

If you manage to take down the sail unfurled and fold it, it would take much less space, but I cannot imagine doing it in any kind of wind - it is really quite big, bigger than the main sail.
DF 35 No. 27
Triplet
Mario
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Post by Mario »

Thank so much for your answer Valentin. Most Code0 producers recommend use of a torsion line sewed into the sail or standing separate as kind of forestay. I understand that you don’t have the torsion line, and the system is functioning well. Great! What furler mark have you got? I planned to use lifting eye at the rear beam as a sheeting point but I am bit afraid that upper spreaders are so wide that it can be difficult to flatten the sail in its upper parts. What do you think about it? Is your sheeting point for Code0 the same as for gennaker (ca. mid-beam)? And how you correct the tension of the after-leech while going upwind?
There are many types of Code0- they differ mainly in midgirth size. Do you may be know the parameters of your Code0: length of luff, foot, haed-clew, and midgirth? I would like to sew it in Optic 2 of dp during this winter.
Best wishes and very Merry Christmas
Mario
Valentin
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Post by Valentin »

Unfortunately, I don't have the parameters for the Code 0.

Technically, I think current rules require the midgirth to be at least 75% of the foot to count as a spinnaker rather than a genoa for measurement, so I am pretty sure that it fulfills this. That said, I have not checked this, and just looking at the sail, it really looks a lot like a huge genoa on the sprit, and can be made surprisingly flat.

There is a stainless line inside the leach that kind of works like a forestay, and allows the sail to be flattened quite nicely. If you do get some wind, it will put a lot of load on the rigging according to the dealer :-).

The sheeting point is the same as for the asymmetric spinnaker, which I think is about 3/4 out on the beam on my boat. It is so close to the point where the preventers / boom vang are that although I was told I could use a barber hauler to this point, I am not sure it would make a lot of sense, but I will try.

I was also contemplating running the sheeting point to the lifting eye, and having a barber hauler to the preventer / vang attachment point so I would have maximum flexibility in opening the leech and trimming the sail, but it is possible that it will either close the leech too much, or that the spreaders will get in the way. In my experience, opening the genoa with the barber hauler just a little bit does a lot for your speed, so I suspect that there is not too much point in closing the leech too much on the Code 0, particularly since you don't really use it on a beat, but I may try next season anyhow :-).

I have not had to correct the tension of the after-leech yet since I only sailed in light wind. I don't remember if it had a line for this like in the genoa, but I would suspect so.

I think the furler is made by Fancor, but I am not sure which size. I am heading down to my boat in January, and I can check for you if you would like me to. It will probably be tough to take out the whole Code 0 unless it is really a wind free day, and I have removed my trampolines so I am not sure where to put it without getting it dirty, but if you can wait until spring, I can certainly measure it and give you all the parameters.

Best wishes to you and a Merry Christmas as well,

Valentin
DF 35 No. 27
Triplet
Double Horizon
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Post by Double Horizon »

Mario wrote:Thank so much for your answer Valentin. Most Code0 producers recommend use of a torsion line sewed into the sail or standing separate as kind of forestay. I understand that you don’t have the torsion line, and the system is functioning well. Great! What furler mark have you got? I planned to use lifting eye at the rear beam as a sheeting point but I am bit afraid that upper spreaders are so wide that it can be difficult to flatten the sail in its upper parts. What do you think about it? Is your sheeting point for Code0 the same as for gennaker (ca. mid-beam)? And how you correct the tension of the after-leech while going upwind?
There are many types of Code0- they differ mainly in midgirth size. Do you may be know the parameters of your Code0: length of luff, foot, haed-clew, and midgirth? I would like to sew it in Optic 2 of dp during this winter.
Best wishes and very Merry Christmas
Mario
Mario I suggest you work with your sail maker to get what you want. If you interview several sail makers you will get different suggestions and hear experienced opinions, and you will learn from each. Ideally you should work with someone who has multihull experience -- because the higher apparent winds of a multihull should affect sail shape and cloth weight. No matter what you do it will not be ideal for all circumstances, and there are many trade-offs. If you race, you will also need to consider measurement rules in your decision.

On my 920 I used a flat reacher cut as a #1 Genoa, sheeted to to the aft beam lifting eye, and barber-hauled out as needed; a "tape drive" sail made by UK Sail-makers in the US. On my 1000 I used a similar sail made by Sobstad in the US, also sheeted to the aft beam lifting eye, and barberhauled out as needed. That wasn't as good.

For the 1200 I had the opportunity to test a "screacher" specified by Quorning and made in Denmark. It was a very large sail and a heavy weight fabric -- too heavy to handle by anyone other than a weightlifter :roll: . After that I decided to go with the lightest sail cloth the sail maker would recommend, and go small/flatter for optimum upwind performance in light air, considering I also own an asymmetric spinnaker. I ordered a #1 flat-cut Genoa "code zero" made by North Sails sheeted to the same cabin-top genoa cars as the standard genoa (but mounted from the bowsprit and spinnaker halyard). It too is barberhauled out as-needed. That works OK but the sheeting point is too far inboard (so I always need to barberhaul) and I should have gone for the bigger sail and sheeted to the aft beam lifting eye.

In my experience with barberhauling these "Code 0" "reacher" or "screacher" light-air genoa type sails on all three boats (all-else equal) a longer foot requires the ideal sheeting point to be further outboard from the centerline (on close reach) than a shorter foot dimension. Generally on a close reach it will be between the mid-point and the inboard lifting eye of the aft beam, and if you come all the way in to the lifting eye (no barberhaul) the VMG to windward will not be as fast as it would if you ease the sheet outward and fall off the wind a bit with the helm.

Some other notes: The Facnor furler is very nice, and works well, although expensive. The spreaders will not interfere except when crossing through the wind when tacking -- you would do better to gybe the sail rather than come-about, and either bring it across out front by leading the sheets around the outside (in front of the sail), or it helps tp partially furl those sails before bringing through the slot in front of the fixed genoa. If you rig it to bring it around outside, you should add a short extension to your sprit so the lazy sheet is less likely to go into the water and under the boat.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
EarthBM
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Re: Code 0

Post by EarthBM »

With everyone having an extra year with their screechers since the last post in this thread (Mario, did you get yours?), can you post some opinions? Worth it, yea or nay?

Now that I realized that sailing with the wife and three kids is the same as sailig single-handed (and I don't have enough experience to easily hoist the gennaker by myself), I am thinking about a code zero permanently furled at the bowsprit.
Valentin wrote:It comes with an endless furler that goes back towards the cockpit, with a block attached at the far end that has an elastic to stretch the endless line system. So far, I had attached the elastic to the lifting eye at the rear beam, where I can easily grab it from the cockpit to furl and unfurl.
Valentin, do you happen to have pictures of this setup?
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
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Post by Mario »

Well, yes and no: I have got one, but not a real Code0, which I wished to have. The story is that I use the boat for both: family cruising and regatta. In DK we use TEXEL Rating as a handicap system. With Code0 I will get too much “penalty” points in relation to practical employment (= extra speed and miles) of this sail. So I decided to order a bit smaller asymmetric, which I can sheet very very close, but which still has 75% midgirth. It is very nice, easy to handle sail giving 2 knots extra in winds 60-90 of TWA, but the wind speed may not be larger than 7 m/s when close hauled. On the other hand, in light airs I can keep my regular big (120m) asymmetric even in 90 TWA, so as you can see, the application of my new asymmetric in race is rather limited. Quite another story is family cruising with this sail: furling is easy and in light airs windward crossing is possible even without furling. Is good enough (much better than genoa) in broad reach, and jibing is easy. In strong wind the sail should be taken down – it gives resistance and drag and because of a risk of spontaneous unfurling. I can’t keep it permanently because I have to fold-in in my harbour, but also the sail is not UV-resistant and the whether in dk is rather unstable.
Double Horizon
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Re: Code 0

Post by Double Horizon »

EarthBM wrote: snip
I am thinking about a code zero permanently furled at the bowsprit.

snip
I think you will find this does not work well in practice. Several reasons:

1) Extra weight aloft and wind drag you don't want when not in use.
2) In large seas (especially upwind) it will swing around and cause the mast to "pump".
3) In high winds when furled it will unravel above the clew.
4) UV protection not practical for this type of sail when furled. You need to lower it on deck and bag it. Sausage bags are popular for this.
5) The bobstay beneath the sprit interferes with anchor line. I always raise the sprit for anchorng.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

Revisiting the project now and would appreciate any critique/suggestions.

- I have an asymmetric spi in a sock, and manage to raise and lower it without issues 50% of the time when by myself (not a high percentage).
- The Genoa is too small for the square top main, so I often need to depower the main to eliminate weather helm on close haul/reach.

So I want to add a Code 0. And maybe I should just go with a continuous line furler attached to the spi tackline, but I am thinking that:

With code 0 there is no need to manage the tack like with a spi, so the tackline would act just like a fixed attachment point.
Continuous furling line adds work to setup/remove and adds clutter.

I am thinking that I could affix an eye to the bowsprit just aft of the tackline block (see linked photo with the bowsprit retracted). Code 0 with a single line furler would then be fastened to that eye with a swiveling snap shackle. Then I could use the spinnaker tackline as the single furling line. The advantage is faster and easier single-handed rigging, no furling lines above the deck. The effort of tying the tackline to the furler seems less than running a separate continuous furling line to the cockpit.

There is more than enough extra tackline to use in the furler.

What can go wrong?

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/3935/photo2bj.jpg
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
gminkovsky
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Post by gminkovsky »

I like your idea!

However, it is still a major pain to use such a large sail especially on a flexible furler. You already have an asymmetric. Have you considered just replacing your genoa with a larger sail to match your main?
clarivoile
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Post by clarivoile »

I have a code 0 in addition to the spinnaker and the genaker. I use the same furling system for the genak and the Code 0.

I really think this code 0 is of a very little use. Depend of wind conditions in your area.

It's the sail used from 0'50" till 3'35" in the following:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KsncCUYHbs
Last edited by clarivoile on Wed 18 Jan 12, 18:35, edited 1 time in total.
D920 E
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

I thought about it, but the genoa sail itself is very nice and fits perfectly with 1st reefed main. When it's time to replace it I will get a bigger one, but for now it just feels like I could be adding something with a code 0 rather than just replacing what I have, for the same cost.

Besides where the boat is going (So Cal, May 2012), 8-10kt is "good wind", so a bigger sail would get used a lot.

The alternative is that now I find myself using the gennaker all the time.
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

Riggers at UK Sailmakers pointed to the potential problem: with the gennaker tackline block affixed at the same point as the bobstay, the stress on the bowsprit when flying the gennaker is mainly along the axis of the bowsprit itself. Lateral stress is taken by the bob stay and lateral bowsprit shrouds. To use that tackline as a furling line for code zero means I need to accommodate a large furling bob and place it at least 8 inches back on the bowsprit. Placing the code zero tack 8 inches back introduces lateral loads on the bowsprit. I imagine the moment it places on the bowsprit structure is a fraction of the sail load, but still the question is very valid.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I asked Quorning, but they are busy, haven’t responded yet.

I am moving towards giving up and just attaching the code zero tack to the gennaker tackline and using a continuous line furler – the most common setup it seems. Question to those with this setup – does this twist the tackline when furling back and forth? How hard is it to furl the code zero in by hand when the wind picks up?
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Double Horizon
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Post by Double Horizon »

EarthBM wrote: snip
Question to those with this setup – does this twist the tackline when furling back and forth? How hard is it to furl the code zero in by hand when the wind picks up?
To limit twist you will need to have at least some tension on the slack side of the CLF (continuous line furler) as you roll it, to keep furl control line feeding aft and prevent the CLF from wrapping. There are various setups for this using shock cord but I can't post any pictures right now. The Andersen "line tender" is best for the furler line http://www.andersenwinches.com/p106.asp

You cannot furl the sail with a CLF when there is a lot of wind pressure on the sail. You must blanket the sail with the main and/or genoa to furl it.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
Let Loose
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Code 0

Post by Let Loose »

I have a Code 0 and use it a lot in light winds up to 10 knots true forward of the beam. It generally gives an extra 1 or 2 knots over the genoa and is easy to handle with the continuous furling line. I have found the best tacking point is achieved by taking out the last bolt outboard from the stainless steel hinge on the crossbeam and (permanently) replacing it with an eye bolt for attachment of the block.
Steve
DF35 - Hull 9
Al
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Post by Al »

EarthBM wrote:Riggers at UK Sailmakers pointed to the potential problem: with the gennaker tackline block affixed at the same point as the bobstay, the stress on the bowsprit when flying the gennaker is mainly along the axis of the bowsprit itself. Lateral stress is taken by the bob stay and lateral bowsprit shrouds. To use that tackline as a furling line for code zero means I need to accommodate a large furling bob and place it at least 8 inches back on the bowsprit. Placing the code zero tack 8 inches back introduces lateral loads on the bowsprit.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
On my DF 920, I fixed a rigging link to the tackline block fitting, and the endless furler for the Code 0 snapped onto that. With the Code 0 lowered (but still attached) the drum lay on its side clear of the tackline block, and when the Code 0 was hoisted it simply pushed the spi block aside.
(I'd add a photo, but can't see how to)

On the DF 28 Sport I have now, the Code 0 attachment is at the sidestay/bobstay junction, and the bowsprit extends forwards to the tackline exit
Let Loose
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Code 0 Sheeting Point

Post by Let Loose »

Re above post, when I said tacking pointy I of course meant sheeting point.
Steve
DF35 - Hull 9
EarthBM
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Re: Code 0

Post by EarthBM »

Let Loose wrote:I have a Code 0 and use it a lot in light winds up to 10 knots true forward of the beam. It generally gives an extra 1 or 2 knots over the genoa and is easy to handle with the continuous furling line. I have found the best tacking point is achieved by taking out the last bolt outboard from the stainless steel hinge on the crossbeam and (permanently) replacing it with an eye bolt for attachment of the block.
I am getting close to ordering a screacher and this sounds like the perfect spot for the sheeting point! Thanks
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

I am currently trying to decide on the size of the new screacher. For a 65sqm sail the clew, when close reaching, would be where the red circle is on this picture: http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/1825 ... erclew.jpg

For 55sqm sail the clew would be where the green circle is here:
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/527/ ... erclew.jpg

Which would you choose? Is 65sqm too cumbersome/unwieldy?

Main sail is 54sqm, genoa is 30sqm, gennaker is 95sqm.
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
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Post by Mario »

No problem with a bigger sail, but bigger not necessarily means better / faster. First is the question do you really want Code0 (or may be Code1 – which is a bit more “all round”). If you want speed at 45-50 TW I would suggest smaller size of a totally flat Code0 made in high modulus mat. (very good in “up-and down” cup sailing), but if you want to use it also in wider angles and tourist occasions, I would suggest bigger and a bit deeper –lets call it Code1. Code0 you can sheet to a rail – see the picture, but a bigger /deeper sail can give too much force and than sheeting to the hinge is necessary.
M

Image Please click on the photo to see it enlarged!
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

Great idea for the track! The load on the sheet is about 600kg, so the force on the screws that attach the track to the hull is probably 300kg. 1. Did you put a metal strip on the other side of the fiberglass wall to support the load?

I actually ordered a smaller 55sqm screacher made of stronger technora strings, not CZ cloth, so this track looks like a better sheeting point than the lifting eye. 2. Are you still using preventer lines to barberhaul it? In this location it looks like genoa barberhaul line may work too.

3. How high can you point? I imagine with this sheeting angle the limiting factor is the luff tension.

Speaking of luff tension (about 1 ton), one concern is how far the sliding strap can be from the end of the bowsprit. The sprit looks a lot lighter than the unstayed sprits on some boats around me, so being close to the bobstay attachment seems critical, to minimize the perpendicular load the sprit probably wasn't designed for.

4. What attachment are people using for the furler? Could you post a picture?

I am so excited about the new sail so I had to number my questions! :)
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
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Post by Mario »

1. No, I did not. I placed plain washers under nuts on the other side. Screws are in every second hole. But sure, you can place metal/additional rail from inside it will make it much stronger.
2. No. I am not, and it’s because my slide (traveller car) is not strong enough. You can see it on the picture above, its just “temporary” cheap solution, which I promised myself to fix soon…(three years ago!). Barberhauling increases forces and I already destroyed couple of these small slides. As you can see on the photo above, on the same slide with block I have also a small snatch block, which I can open and use for endless roller line (just on port side).
3. I cannot point very high, unfortunately I have no Code0, see my topic above Tue 26 Apr 11, 5:46 . But now I really wish to have one. I cannot answer on the rest of your comment / question – I don’t know.
4. I don’t know what people are using, but I use the same eye which we use for gennaker. I just removed the spring and the block is now hanging on side so I have easy access to the eye form above. At the bottom of the roller I have a kind of heavy duty snap hook which I can fix with one hand to the eye. Well, its difficult to describe, I will make a photo and post it. It works quite well. Unfortunately, I have only one halyard, so changing sails is hopelessly cumbersome.
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

I was thinking about the force on the sliding block. It would be reduced almost two times if the sheet went from the winch to another block attached to the lifting eye, and then through the block on the sliding track. The lifting eye block would take greater force, but its is a stronger attachment point.

I understand how you attach the furler to the bowsprit. What snap hook are you using? Similar to Wichard snap hooks used on the preventer lines?
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
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Post by Mario »

Yes, it was the option I used at the end of the season and must agree that most probably it works (slides are still in good form), but I am not sure if unloading is sufficient in strong winds. On the other hand I am not using my flat gennaker in strong winds: 1.mat. is not strong, 2. tension is very high, 3. (maybe most important) no advantage (more speed) vs. genoa.
Attachment should be stiff (not a line), to make rolling easy. Yes its Wichard, but not the one we have on preventer. I don’t know how its call, but see the photo. This hook is very handy to just snap the roller at the eye with one hand, even during rough sailing.
Well, all these are not authorized, I am sure there are better ways to do it. It’s just Mario’s way…

Image Please click on the photo to see it enlarged!
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

Thanks Mario, this looks like the easiest solution! I doubt Wichard or anyone rates their snaphooks for twisting force, but the furler is not going to put a lot of force.
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
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Post by Mario »

Twisting force is not a problem for this hook, but the tension force can stretch and deform it. At the beginning I used too much tension on halyard, which was unnecessary for my deep sail. In case of Code0 you may want more tension. But I believe your sail maker can help you with a setup.
One thing more: if you remove the spring which support the block on bowsprit and use this setup for rolling screacher you can expect some scratches on the bowsprit. You can protect it with an adhesive tape or sth like this.
Good luck with your new screacher!
M
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

Guys this was very helpful. So I now got a screacher and will try to fit it this weekend. I will use "Mario's Way" - the same Wichard hook for the tack; and Steve's idea of replacing the outside aka bolt with an eyebolt for the sheeting point (Wichard M10 eyebolt which I will cut from 100mm to 40mm).

The third angle of the sail remains to be decided. It seems that the needed luff tension calls for a 2:1 spinnaker halyard setup. It should also be good for preventing halyard twisting when furling. How is yours set up?

My current 1:1 setup has the halyard exit the sheave at masthead, then pass through a block about 1m lower, at the reinforced point where forestay is attached. If I replace that block with a double block to make it 2:1 where do I tie the end of the halyard at masthead? There is no obvious place like for the main halyard.
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
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Post by Mario »

Why 2:1? I have also 1:1, all we have 1:1.
Back to the hook: to secure that the bearing point is close to the long arm of the hook (where it is strongest and the risk of deformation is smallest) I squeezed the hook in vice. The angel is smaller now (see photo above) and the hook glides always to the lowest point while hoisting the rolled sail.
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

To use the sail upwind I believe ~1000kg tension needs to be put on the luff. The big winch on the cabin top can do it, but I suspect that the Easylock clutch may not hold it. I think the clutch is rated to 700kg http://www.svb24.com/sailboat+deck+equi ... lutch.html
A 2:1 halyard would take the needed tension down to 500kg. In fact Randy Smyth who made the sail recommended to leave the halyard on the winch.

This is the snaphook I used http://www.wichard.com/fiche-A%7CWICHAR ... 00-ME.html
Should be good enough. To hook it I had to get my butt outside the bow pulpits though. I guess if the sea state makes it dangerous then there is probably no need to hook up the screacher.
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
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Post by Mario »

Easylock is not so good clutch, not on 35’er. I don’t remember where, but we have discussed problems with Easylock somewhere here. I changed to Spinlock… and since no problems with lines at all!
EarthBM
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Post by EarthBM »

I think the problem was me guessing incorrectly that Mika broke his Easylock (instead it was a weird cleat/eyebolt combo on DF 1000).
What Spinlock did you get? I saw pretty expensive ones (XXC). Did you consider Lewmar D2 - also higher load but cheaper?
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
Posts: 69
Joined: Sat 09 Aug 08, 21:20
Your Country: Denmark, Copenhagen

Post by Mario »

I have a single XCS on main + automatic for board + tripple Lewmar on portside and XTS-block5 on the starboard. I still use Easylock for sheets. My intention is to change Lewmar (which is the small one) to XTS-3. Yes, I considered Lewmar D2- its good option for sure, but I am more convinced to Spinlock. Just decided to use more money once and eliminate constant expens of lines (and it works!).
EarthBM
Posts: 206
Joined: Fri 17 Sep 10, 0:54
Your Country: USA, So Cal -- So Florida

Post by EarthBM »

Used the sail for the first time last weekend. As advertised it added 1-2knots - 8-9 close reaching in 10-12 true instead of 6-7 with genoa. Can point up to 30 degrees off apparent, just a couple degrees worse than genoa. Think the limiting factor is luff tension, but I am not sure how much more the bowsprit can take.

Left the halyard on the winch. Easylock does seem to chew the line a bit. I am undecided between getting a Spinlock or a 2:1 halyard when this one is used up. 1:1 worked ok, no twisting, it's just that I have a 5x Easylock block on Sb side (+1 for genoa sheet) and so would need to buy 5 clutches.

By "automatic for board" do you mean the simple jam cleat that pops up for the board down haul, or something more advanced? Also Spinlock XTS has 700kg max load, not enough for 1000kg on single screacher halyard (if used for upwind, which you maybe don't need).

Here's a picture, a little distorted by my shaky hand using iPhone panorama feature. http://imageshack.us/a/img200/1843/photofeb02152105.jpg
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
Mario
Posts: 69
Joined: Sat 09 Aug 08, 21:20
Your Country: Denmark, Copenhagen

Post by Mario »

Wow! What a beautiful sail you have got! Congratulations! Looks really very good. And the main is also very nice, who made them?
Yes, I mean jam cleat that pops up, nothing more advanced.
EarthBM
Posts: 206
Joined: Fri 17 Sep 10, 0:54
Your Country: USA, So Cal -- So Florida

Post by EarthBM »

Thanks. Main is a 3yr old UK Sailmakers sail, the screacher is a new Randy Smyth "string" sail, with Colligo furler, which works pretty well.
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
penryj
Posts: 51
Joined: Thu 12 Jun 08, 7:19
Your Country: New York, NY

Post by penryj »

Beautiful sail. The Colligo fulrler looks smaller and lighter than the stainless steel facnor one that I have that came from Quorning. By the way, is that a Manson anchor you have there? How big is it?
Penry

DF35-25
Gwas Y Neidr
EarthBM
Posts: 206
Joined: Fri 17 Sep 10, 0:54
Your Country: USA, So Cal -- So Florida

Post by EarthBM »

Yep, it is pretty light - useful when you need to reach to hook it on the bowsprit. Colligo CN3 - 1500kg safe load. 6" diameter sheave - very easy to furl. Karver furlers look sleek but at 3x the price.

I think it's a Manson, feels like 35lb. Works well, didn't drag at all in 20kt and 3-5ft waves overnight once, in sand.
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
EarthBM
Posts: 206
Joined: Fri 17 Sep 10, 0:54
Your Country: USA, So Cal -- So Florida

Post by EarthBM »

My current compromise location for the screacher sheet block is the second aka bolt from the outside. When close reaching I use a spare sheet as an inwards barberhaul. Seems to work ok. Can clearly be seen in this picture
http://imageshack.us/a/img713/2336/4gs6.jpg

Was able to point 30 degrees off apparent today. When apparent wind got to 19-20kt I furled the screacher (had to go in irons, singlehanded with autopilot remote control battery dead). The end result was that I was going just as fast into the wind with the genoa (~8-9kt in 14kt true wind, with ~3-4ft seas).
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
EarthBM
Posts: 206
Joined: Fri 17 Sep 10, 0:54
Your Country: USA, So Cal -- So Florida

Post by EarthBM »

Well since we haven't had any posts for months (not even about the Barcelona-Slovenia delivery), here's what I did about the undersized (for the 1:1 screacher halyard) Easylock. I added a rope clutch. It holds the halyard well by itself, but I close the Easylock too just in case.

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/2253/rcw1.jpg
Ronstan Constrictor Rope Clutch - 3/8" (10 mm)
Ivan -- DF 35 #29 "Lykke"
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