DF1000 Mooring type

For all those DF1000 issues which do not fit into any of the categories below.
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Johnt
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri 05 Feb 10, 21:18
Your Country: Maidenhead

DF1000 Mooring type

Post by Johnt »

Is it possible to use a drying mooring with a DF1000?

Does the propeller need to be kept off the bottom at all times or is it recessed above the bottom of the hull?

I am in the market for a DF 1000 and need to specify the mooring type
JOHNT
Mika Harju
Posts: 218
Joined: Thu 02 Nov 06, 13:19
Your Country: Finland, Turku

Re: DF1000 Mooring type

Post by Mika Harju »

Johnt wrote:Is it possible to use a drying mooring with a DF1000?

Does the propeller need to be kept off the bottom at all times or is it recessed above the bottom of the hull?
The propeller shaft is almost the lowest part of the bottom, just 10mm above the skeg. Please take a look at attached photo.
I do not know is it possible/wise/recommended to use a drying mooring, but anyhow the bottom needs to be soft, no rocks etc and flat. Here in Finland we do not have any tide at all, so I am not familiar with this topic.

Image Image Please click on any of the photos to see them enlarged!
Last edited by Mika Harju on Sat 17 Apr 10, 14:03, edited 1 time in total.
Mika Harju
DF1000 Racing #8
Double Horizon
Posts: 440
Joined: Wed 09 May 07, 0:18
Your Country: USA

Re: DF1000 Mooring type

Post by Double Horizon »

Johnt wrote:Is it possible to use a drying mooring with a DF1000?

Does the propeller need to be kept off the bottom at all times or is it recessed above the bottom of the hull?

I am in the market for a DF 1000 and need to specify the mooring type
By "drying mooring" I assume you mean a mooring field anchorage that dries out at low tide, leaving the boat on mud or sand; and not a dock that mechanically lifts and supports the boat on a cradle designed for the boat?

I strongly advise against it. Beaching the boat is great for pictures in marketing literature to illustrate shallow draft capability, but not good for your bottom finish. :wink:

The propeller is recessed above the bottom of the hull skeg, but not by a lot, and the skeg provides some protection but is narrow. All Dragonflies built by Quorning have solid fiberglass along the centerline strip of the bottom for about 1-2 feet wide, and the lowest areas are quite sturdy, but most of the hull areas are foam-cored with thin skin to keep the boat light. It can handle a gentle grounding and drying out, and the solid areas will handle it better, but the following cautions apply:

1) It must be a protected area with no wakes or long "fetch". If there are waves and the boat is not "hard aground" (mid-tide?), it could cause repeated pounding against the bottom resulting in eventual damage.
2) Rocks, gravel and shells could cause high point-loads that scratch and damage as the boat moves, could jam in the centerboard slot, or cause damage to bottom skin/core.
3) If the bottom is uneven, or is very soft so the hull sinks deep in mud or sand, or if there is a boulder that protrudes up -- damage to the shaft or prop blades is a possibility.
4) Sand and gravel stuffed into the centerboard, cutlass bearing and shaft tube at start of every use will likely cause premature wear.
5) For ANY boat, your (expensive) anti-fouling paint will not last.

And lastly, you will be restricted by the tides so you won't be able to come and go when you please.
Last edited by Double Horizon on Sat 17 Apr 10, 15:02, edited 1 time in total.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
tpaliwoda
Posts: 215
Joined: Fri 03 Nov 06, 3:05
Your Country: USA, Raritan YC, Perth Amboy, New Jersey

Post by tpaliwoda »

Larry is correct with all his points.

Look for a place to keep it that has water all the time. It can float in very little water, just make sure you keep the rudder and centerboard up when you put it away.
Ted Paliwoda
D'Fly 1000 ; HN #1
Nice Tri
Raritan YC, Perth Amboy, NJ, USA
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