Water Tank Access

For all those DF1000 issues which do not fit into any of the categories below.
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TC
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri 31 Dec 10, 20:26
Your Country: USA, Sedro-Woolley

Water Tank Access

Post by TC »

Last summer, my wife noticed an odd taste in the fresh water. This led to attempting to replace the old vinyl water lines with PEX.

At the same time, I decided to clean the tank (turns out there was a thin layer of...something coating the sides). Talk about a PITA! 34x 2in SS screws to pull/attach the plexiglass top. So, while the top was off, an 8 1/4in Whale TCL-4 Watertight Locker Door (LD4002) was installed. Simple installation requiring a jig saw, drill, 10x 1in #10-24 SS nuts and bolts along with aquarium quality silicon sealant.

The hatch sticks up about 3/4in above the tank top. With Hypervent under mattress pads, the hatch has very little impact under our feet.

Now, instead of having to deal with the 34 screws, I simply have to twist off the hatch cover.
TC

Formerly of:
Strider
DF 1000 #17
Mika Harju
Posts: 218
Joined: Thu 02 Nov 06, 13:19
Your Country: Finland, Turku

Re: Water Tank Access

Post by Mika Harju »

TC wrote:Last summer, my wife noticed an odd taste in the fresh water. This led to attempting to replace the old vinyl water lines with PEX.

At the same time, I decided to clean the tank (turns out there was a thin layer of...something coating the sides). Talk about a PITA! 34x 2in SS screws to pull/attach the plexiglass top. So, while the top was off, an 8 1/4in Whale TCL-4 Watertight Locker Door (LD4002) was installed. Simple installation requiring a jig saw, drill, 10x 1in #10-24 SS nuts and bolts along with aquarium quality silicon sealant.

The hatch sticks up about 3/4in above the tank top. With Hypervent under mattress pads, the hatch has very little impact under our feet.

Now, instead of having to deal with the 34 screws, I simply have to twist off the hatch cover.
Could you please add few photos, thanks
Mika Harju
DF1000 Racing #8
Double Horizon
Posts: 440
Joined: Wed 09 May 07, 0:18
Your Country: USA

Post by Double Horizon »

Good idea to add the port. I also added a 4" port in the bow deck ahead of the furler on my 1000. Makes it much easier to access the below-deck cotter pin and clevis, and retrieve dropped parts/tools or service the pump-out fittings if needed.

Please see my prior post about how to kill organisms in your fresh water system. I do this annually in Spring. http://www.dragonfly-trimarans.org/phpB ... bleach#537

As for using PEX, I think that may be overkill. PEX is designed to withstand much higher pressures than you have in a boat. Also, everything between the supply tank and the pressure pump is non-pressurized. Reinforced vinyl would still be my choice for replacement, as it's much more flexible and easier to route, and less costly too. (But PEX is also inexpensive so that's not the main decision criteria.) PEX might be preferred within the engine room on the hot water outlet close to the heater, because vinyl tends to soften and become weaker there, but I've never seen it rupture from the heat.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
Steve B.
Posts: 235
Joined: Thu 02 Nov 06, 1:58
Your Country: USA, Whidbey Island WA

Hot Water Tank Outlet Hose Softening

Post by Steve B. »

Larry,

I have.

Several years ago, we had to motor about ten miles in windless conditions.
As we were nearly out of water, I fired up the Spectra watermaker.

When we got to our new anchorage, I shut off the Spectra and checked the water tank gauge.

To my suprise and horror, the pressure water pump was running and we were on EMPTY !!!
The outlet hose had blown off, the clamp was holding a jello like hose end.
The upside was, we had a really clean engine compartment...

An hour's work and we were back in business, making water in a clean anchorage.

Steve
TC
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri 31 Dec 10, 20:26
Your Country: USA, Sedro-Woolley

Pics

Post by TC »

Mika,
Sorry so long to reply, been traveling! Not very good (dark) pictures are available at: http://skeelsrinehart.blogspot.com/2014 ... jects.html
This is a page from our 'Sailing Trimaran Wind Strider' blog. The blog is mostly a ship's log, recording more of the technical and/or specific details of traveling from point A to point B. However, there is a bit of boat projects along with travelogue thrown in.

Larry,
I've not seen the vinyl rupture, but I've seen it rot: The section from the water tank to the pump was bad. Since the lines are being replaced, I'm going for broke and installing something which will last. Further, installing 3/4 inch PEX (vice 1/2 inch) to increase flow in the lower pressure system.
Also, the hot water lines are rubber, the same lines used for engine coolant circulation to the hot water tank. Nasty rubber taste. PEX on this part seems a no brainer....
TC

Formerly of:
Strider
DF 1000 #17
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