Anchoring

Motor, Motor Maintenance, Winches, Cooker, Heater, Fridge, Battery, Battery Charging, Shore Connection, Instruments, Autopilot, Anchor etc
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Fabio
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue 01 Mar 16, 2:46
Your Country: US, Fort Lauderdale, 33301

Anchoring

Post by Fabio »

When at anchor or mooring, do you run your tackle to the cleat on the bow or use a bridle to the amas?
Fabio
gminkovsky
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed 01 Nov 06, 19:58
Your Country: USA, Long Island Sound

Post by gminkovsky »

I run the main anchor rode to the cleat on main hull, and 2 bridle lines to the amas. I adjust the main line so it is somewhat slack.

If I am only anchoring for a couple of hours I connect rode to the main hull and only one of the bridle lines to one ama. In this asymmetric setup the boat actually swings less.

There is an older post somewhere in this forum that discusses mooring and anchoring and it has a detailed description of my mooring setup.
Fabio
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Joined: Tue 01 Mar 16, 2:46
Your Country: US, Fort Lauderdale, 33301

Post by Fabio »

thank you very much. I will look for the older post
Fabio
Double Horizon
Posts: 440
Joined: Wed 09 May 07, 0:18
Your Country: USA

Post by Double Horizon »

I do similar to George. To attach the temporary bridle, I use a short loop of Dyneema in a Prussic knot, for each bridle leg. The ends of both bridle lines each have a large Wichard snap hook, which is used to attach to the Dyneema loops.

A Prussic knot does not slide under load, and it slides easily when loose. Simple to tie and easy to release even after it has been wet and pulled hard. The alternative is a rolling hitch with no snap hook or Dyneema loops.

You can buy Dyneema loops pre-made or splice your own. You can also make or buy something like the Davis Line Grabber http://www.davisnet.com/product/linegrabber/

I splice mine because it's satisfying to learn and do, and the Line Grabber only has a 900Kg working load (mine are stronger). I don't use a loop -- I make mine so each Prussic attachment is like the LineGrabber but longer. I leave about 9 inches (12 cm) between the spliced eyes which allows a longer line "bury" in the splices.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
Fabio
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue 01 Mar 16, 2:46
Your Country: US, Fort Lauderdale, 33301

Post by Fabio »

Thank you Larry.
What size Dyneema do you use?
Do you use the eye bolt on the bow of the ama to attach the end pf the bridle?
Do you tie a bowline knot or use another snap hook?
Thanks
Fabio
Double Horizon
Posts: 440
Joined: Wed 09 May 07, 0:18
Your Country: USA

Post by Double Horizon »

Fabio wrote:Thank you Larry.
What size Dyneema do you use?
Do you use the eye bolt on the bow of the ama to attach the end pf the bridle?
Do you tie a bowline knot or use another snap hook?
Thanks
I use 1/4" Dyneema single-braid. The loops at each end are made with a Brummel Lock Splice. I make the loops longer than needed so that the turns around the anchor line are not the buried portion of the Dyneema. You can find many sources online to do that Locked Brummel splice. Here's one http://neropes.com/Splicing%20Guide%20I ... ummell.pdf

I use spliced-on snap hooks attached to the ends of the forward crossbeams, also. http://marine.wichard.com/fiche-A%7CWIC ... 00-ME.html

Only permanent splices -- no bowlines for mooring lines. My bridle lines have the Wichard snap hooks at each end. You should know that the Asymmetric style of Wichard snap hooks (in same diameter steel) have a higher safe working load than the symmetrical ones.

My finished bridal length is 22 feet (6.7 meters) each side, and the beam of the DF 1200 is 28 feet. That puts my bridle attachment point to the rode approximately 3-4 meters ahead of the bow. After the rode is let out the attachment of the bridle is under water.

I use the same bridles on a swing mooring, and the same Dyneema to attach to the mooring (unless I can use the snap hooks directly). This is the reason I prefer to use metal snap hooks spliced at both ends. No chafe. Also, I attach floats (sections of closed-cell pipe insulation with gaps between to allow flexibility) on the bridle so that it doesn't sink beneath a swing mooring float and wrap around the chain.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
Fabio
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue 01 Mar 16, 2:46
Your Country: US, Fort Lauderdale, 33301

Post by Fabio »

Thank you Larry.
This is an awesome and very detailed explanation.
F
Fabio
Double Horizon
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Post by Double Horizon »

Fabio wrote:Thank you Larry.
This is an awesome and very detailed explanation.
F
It's my pleasure Fabio. Winter is a good time to learn splicing. I do all my own splices, it is very therapeutic and a nice use of spare time. After I learn something new and do a few splices I then focus on trying to make them look professional. It's a source of pride. More manly than knitting :-)
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
Double Horizon
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Your Country: USA

Post by Double Horizon »

Also, I keep one bridle for travelling (cruising) and the other stays on my home swing mooring, which is permanent. The home mooring bridle has stainless thimbles at the mooring end, and attaches to the mooring with 5/8" galvanized bow shackles. It also has floats. I use a multihull bridle plate http://www.taylormadeproducts.com/suppo ... elines.pdf

When I leave it for more than a week I leave the center pennant attached but remove the bridle legs so that marine growth doesn't take over. If time permits I take them home and power wash them, if not I throw them in a black trash bag in the ama, for cleaning later. They accumulate a lot of growth so that can get pretty nasty if they aren't cleaned and aired out. I can usually clean them myself but a marina probably wouldn't charge much to power wash them if you need to have them do it.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
Fabio
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue 01 Mar 16, 2:46
Your Country: US, Fort Lauderdale, 33301

Post by Fabio »

Thank you, really useful info.
You have inspired me to start splicing.
Fabio
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