Did you see the pull out system for no 40? Saw it on Bella exhibition 2011. Will implement soon.
The pull out part of the rope goes forward from a cheek block and not out to the ama. Ask me for pictures (Can we attach pictures in this forum?).
Swing wing pull out
Swing wing pull out
Anders
Re: Swing wing pull out
Anders,aro wrote:Did you see the pull out system for no 40? Saw it on Bella exhibition 2011. Will implement soon.
The pull out part of the rope goes forward from a cheek block and not out to the ama. Ask me for pictures (Can we attach pictures in this forum?).
did you actually implement the new pull out system on your boat?
Has anyone done the modification?
I was told that it is not possible to retrofit exactly the new pull out system on older 28's but that a similar sistem can be implemented.
I am tempted to try. But want to understand the difficulty and the cost involved.
Last Sunday I had the first sail of the season (it is so great to see your beloved toy opening the wings after a cold winter on the trailer). I was on my own. probably due to dirt/lack of lubrification and the line not being clear I had some difficulties in folding in (with the result I missed my train and my plane back to work, not too bad..).
Judging from youtube the new system seems to work better and with less effort due to the better pulling angles. Moreover it does not get entangled in the akas' hatches handles.
Is it worth changing? Is it doable?
Thanks a lot for any experience out there.
pippo
Ciao,
pippo
pippo
hi Pippo,
Yes, I implemented this. Boat no 14. Works great (have no problems with it). Two cheek blocks and four or six plastic leads.
I remember a problem not hitting the aluminium backing plate with all screws for the cheek blocks. Also, the laminate was really tough, impossible to screw if you drill to small but do not drill to large or you get no purchase.
It is a lot easier to unfold!
Yes, I implemented this. Boat no 14. Works great (have no problems with it). Two cheek blocks and four or six plastic leads.
I remember a problem not hitting the aluminium backing plate with all screws for the cheek blocks. Also, the laminate was really tough, impossible to screw if you drill to small but do not drill to large or you get no purchase.
It is a lot easier to unfold!
Anders
Great! I guess I will follow your lead also on this (you convinced me to go to the high thrust propeller, a choice of which I am extremely happy).aro wrote:hi Pippo,
Yes, I implemented this. Boat no 14. Works great (have no problems with it). Two cheek blocks and four or six plastic leads.
When you have a little time can you describe how you implemented the system and possibly send Bo a couple of pictures so that I (and the rest of the utterly silent DF 28 community) can copy without making mistakes...
Thanks
Ciao,
pippo
pippo
Alternative swing wing pullout system
Finally I took the time to take the pictures. Bo (admin) will make them available in the context of this message.
I am describing my conversion and put forward some opinions. However, anything you do to your boat is on you own risk. :
Please click on any of the photos to see them enlarged!
Pictures show cheek block leading pull out line forward through a fairlead placed aft on the "box" section of the hull, there is a second fairlead at the front of this "box" to minimize the free hanging length for the rope. Nothing had to be done at the front inside corner of the trampoline.
The cheek block is mounted in very thick laminate. In my layman opinion you do not need to hit the backing plate. The force is only in the plane of the cheek block.
Make sure the swiveling block (the one both lines go through before this conversion) has enough space before drilling.
(a picture of the spray deflector for the locker drain is included. We had occasional water ingress here. Very irritating, smell and mould, I recommend this solution too
).
When looking from the inside, to port there is the heater which had to be removed to access the backing plate area. This I did not do for pictures. To starboard there are no obstructions. Look at the previously mounted equipment to figure out where your drill will find itself on the inside.
I did not take the time to identify which screws belong to the cheek blocks. Just make sure you do not hit anything important.
Fairleads should have metal surface on the inside. Use some regular Sikaflex or what you call the sticky water sealing goo for each screw.
Two guys, 1 hour. Good luck.
I am describing my conversion and put forward some opinions. However, anything you do to your boat is on you own risk. :
Please click on any of the photos to see them enlarged!
Pictures show cheek block leading pull out line forward through a fairlead placed aft on the "box" section of the hull, there is a second fairlead at the front of this "box" to minimize the free hanging length for the rope. Nothing had to be done at the front inside corner of the trampoline.
The cheek block is mounted in very thick laminate. In my layman opinion you do not need to hit the backing plate. The force is only in the plane of the cheek block.
Make sure the swiveling block (the one both lines go through before this conversion) has enough space before drilling.
(a picture of the spray deflector for the locker drain is included. We had occasional water ingress here. Very irritating, smell and mould, I recommend this solution too
).When looking from the inside, to port there is the heater which had to be removed to access the backing plate area. This I did not do for pictures. To starboard there are no obstructions. Look at the previously mounted equipment to figure out where your drill will find itself on the inside.
I did not take the time to identify which screws belong to the cheek blocks. Just make sure you do not hit anything important.
Fairleads should have metal surface on the inside. Use some regular Sikaflex or what you call the sticky water sealing goo for each screw.
Two guys, 1 hour. Good luck.
Thanks! Some foillow up questions
Anders,
Thanks a lot for taking the time for making these very instructive pictures (and Bo for posting).
Everything is quite clear. Just some follow up questions to be sure I did not misunderstand (and have all the materials needed) before I start drilling.
The cheeck block nuts on the inside are the big self locking nuts with washers? you can see outside of the backing plate?
How did you fix the fairleads? just screws and sikaflex or you put bolts with nuts and washers inside?
Could you reuse the original dynema lines or longer/shorter ones were needed?
Finally did you do that with the boat in the water or on the trailer?
Thanks again and I hope I am not abusing your patience!
Thanks a lot for taking the time for making these very instructive pictures (and Bo for posting).
Everything is quite clear. Just some follow up questions to be sure I did not misunderstand (and have all the materials needed) before I start drilling.
The cheeck block nuts on the inside are the big self locking nuts with washers? you can see outside of the backing plate?
How did you fix the fairleads? just screws and sikaflex or you put bolts with nuts and washers inside?
Could you reuse the original dynema lines or longer/shorter ones were needed?
Finally did you do that with the boat in the water or on the trailer?
Thanks again and I hope I am not abusing your patience!
Ciao,
pippo
pippo
Hi Pippo,
I keep forgetting to visit this page.
No, can't remember using bolts but rather stainless screws without nuts and washers. Maybe one or two bolts per block. The nuts and washers you see are probably for the swing wing hinge. The last picture shows where we come in. below and in front of the bolts where one screw missed the backing plate. Outside positioning is more important I think.
The fairleads as you guess, screws and sikaflex. Fine after two whole seasons.
Reuse lines, could be a little shorter.
Done with the boat on trailer (recommended).
I keep forgetting to visit this page.
No, can't remember using bolts but rather stainless screws without nuts and washers. Maybe one or two bolts per block. The nuts and washers you see are probably for the swing wing hinge. The last picture shows where we come in. below and in front of the bolts where one screw missed the backing plate. Outside positioning is more important I think.
The fairleads as you guess, screws and sikaflex. Fine after two whole seasons.
Reuse lines, could be a little shorter.
Done with the boat on trailer (recommended).
Anders