A few things DF-1200 owners may want to know
Posted: Tue 26 May 09, 15:28
1) If you encounter a pair of 12v wires that are blue and brown: Blue is negative and brown is positive.
2) If you need to run (or trace) wires forward from the main switch panel to the head and bow areas: There are three plastic (PVC) conduits that run from the main switch panel to the rear of the bathroom "medicine cabinet" (with the sliding tinted acrylic doors). You can remove the wood panel at the back of that cabinet with just two screws and access those wires. From that point forward there are two more conduits that run forward -- one to the AC circuit breakers and one to the bow locker (for the bow light).
3) If you are making up a three-point bridle -- the lines that attach to the outer ends of the forward cross beams should be 3 feet longer than the line to the bow cleat. I use a 20-foot center line and 23-foot port/starboard bridle lines. Using that as a guideline, the line to the center hull will be slightly slack unless one of the side attachments fails, and it will serve as a backup.
2) If you need to run (or trace) wires forward from the main switch panel to the head and bow areas: There are three plastic (PVC) conduits that run from the main switch panel to the rear of the bathroom "medicine cabinet" (with the sliding tinted acrylic doors). You can remove the wood panel at the back of that cabinet with just two screws and access those wires. From that point forward there are two more conduits that run forward -- one to the AC circuit breakers and one to the bow locker (for the bow light).
3) If you are making up a three-point bridle -- the lines that attach to the outer ends of the forward cross beams should be 3 feet longer than the line to the bow cleat. I use a 20-foot center line and 23-foot port/starboard bridle lines. Using that as a guideline, the line to the center hull will be slightly slack unless one of the side attachments fails, and it will serve as a backup.