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Lifting a 920

Posted: Mon 22 Nov 10, 20:07
by Chris R
Hi Can anyone remind me which way round the lifting cables go - shorter ones on back or front lifting eyes. Thanks

Posted: Thu 25 Nov 10, 20:41
by Chris R
To answer my own question - longer ones at the front. At least now I'll know where to look for the answer in teh future !!

What does the cables look like?

Posted: Wed 07 Aug 13, 17:43
by Christian
Hi Chris

Are the lifting cables a 1 to 4 connection? All 4 cables are connected in one point, 2 long and 2 short - to get the center of gravity of the boat in the connection point?

Re: What does the cables look like?

Posted: Thu 08 Aug 13, 3:59
by Double Horizon
Christian wrote:Hi Chris

Are the lifting cables a 1 to 4 connection? All 4 cables are connected in one point, 2 long and 2 short - to get the center of gravity of the boat in the connection point?
Yes, joined by quick links. In my experience it doesn't succeed, and the boat sits bow-down while in the air. I changed mine for equal length load-rated flat lifting straps made of polyester. I use load-rated galvanized D-shackles at the ends. Now it hangs level.

Lifting square

Posted: Wed 14 Aug 13, 21:21
by Christian
Any experience using a "lifting square" in the crane and lift in the lifting eyes? My marina got a "square" to hold out the "belts" lifting regular boats. Think using the eyes would be better for the boat.

Posted: Wed 14 Aug 13, 23:28
by Steve B.
If you're using a travelift, have them disconnect the straps and shackle directly to the lifting eyes.
The lift can adjust the distance between the forward and aft lifting points.
That's how I've had it done.

Re: Lifting square

Posted: Thu 15 Aug 13, 5:31
by Double Horizon
Christian wrote:Any experience using a "lifting square" in the crane and lift in the lifting eyes? My marina got a "square" to hold out the "belts" lifting regular boats. Think using the eyes would be better for the boat.
Yes it is better to use the eyes. If you use straps it's important to tie off to the eyes anyway, so the boat can't roll in the slings. Unlike a monohull there is no weighted keel so the boat is very top-heavy.

Also, you should sling only the center hull. Never the amas.

Posted: Thu 15 Aug 13, 5:35
by Double Horizon
Steve B. wrote:If you're using a travelift, have them disconnect the straps and shackle directly to the lifting eyes.
The lift can adjust the distance between the forward and aft lifting points.
That's how I've had it done.
Same here, but you should also tie the travelift lifting straps together with dyneema or spectra line so they can't spread as the boat is lifted and the angle of each strap becomes wider. You don't want a side load on the lifting eyes.

Posted: Thu 15 Aug 13, 16:39
by Steve B.
That's a good idea, but the factory lifting harness puts side loads on the eyes, just in a different direction.

Posted: Thu 15 Aug 13, 16:46
by Double Horizon
The factory recommendation is to rotate the eyes so the angle of pull is somewhat aligned with the long dimension of steel that makes the eye, and the hole in the eye is perpendicular to the angle of pull. (I hope that's a clear description). That makes it less likely to bend the eye to one side.

Just an update

Posted: Fri 27 Feb 15, 14:16
by Christian
Bought 4 chains - max load 1,4T(metric) each length 1,5 m. from a company for pro lifting gear. Hooks did not fit in eyes. So I bought 4 shackles - max load 4T each.

Now it is so easy to lift her. I'll use the same length on all chains

Image Please click on the photo to see it enlarged!

Posted: Fri 27 Feb 15, 19:29
by Steve B.
Double Horizon wrote:The factory recommendation is to rotate the eyes so the angle of pull is somewhat aligned with the long dimension of steel that makes the eye, and the hole in the eye is perpendicular to the angle of pull. (I hope that's a clear description). That makes it less likely to bend the eye to one side.
I did that automatically, without even thinking about it.
I guess I should have mentioned it.

:wink: