Lifting a 920
Lifting a 920
Hi Can anyone remind me which way round the lifting cables go - shorter ones on back or front lifting eyes. Thanks
What does the cables look like?
Hi Chris
Are the lifting cables a 1 to 4 connection? All 4 cables are connected in one point, 2 long and 2 short - to get the center of gravity of the boat in the connection point?
Are the lifting cables a 1 to 4 connection? All 4 cables are connected in one point, 2 long and 2 short - to get the center of gravity of the boat in the connection point?
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Re: What does the cables look like?
Yes, joined by quick links. In my experience it doesn't succeed, and the boat sits bow-down while in the air. I changed mine for equal length load-rated flat lifting straps made of polyester. I use load-rated galvanized D-shackles at the ends. Now it hangs level.Christian wrote:Hi Chris
Are the lifting cables a 1 to 4 connection? All 4 cables are connected in one point, 2 long and 2 short - to get the center of gravity of the boat in the connection point?
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
Lifting square
Any experience using a "lifting square" in the crane and lift in the lifting eyes? My marina got a "square" to hold out the "belts" lifting regular boats. Think using the eyes would be better for the boat.
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Re: Lifting square
Yes it is better to use the eyes. If you use straps it's important to tie off to the eyes anyway, so the boat can't roll in the slings. Unlike a monohull there is no weighted keel so the boat is very top-heavy.Christian wrote:Any experience using a "lifting square" in the crane and lift in the lifting eyes? My marina got a "square" to hold out the "belts" lifting regular boats. Think using the eyes would be better for the boat.
Also, you should sling only the center hull. Never the amas.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
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Same here, but you should also tie the travelift lifting straps together with dyneema or spectra line so they can't spread as the boat is lifted and the angle of each strap becomes wider. You don't want a side load on the lifting eyes.Steve B. wrote:If you're using a travelift, have them disconnect the straps and shackle directly to the lifting eyes.
The lift can adjust the distance between the forward and aft lifting points.
That's how I've had it done.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
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The factory recommendation is to rotate the eyes so the angle of pull is somewhat aligned with the long dimension of steel that makes the eye, and the hole in the eye is perpendicular to the angle of pull. (I hope that's a clear description). That makes it less likely to bend the eye to one side.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
I did that automatically, without even thinking about it.Double Horizon wrote:The factory recommendation is to rotate the eyes so the angle of pull is somewhat aligned with the long dimension of steel that makes the eye, and the hole in the eye is perpendicular to the angle of pull. (I hope that's a clear description). That makes it less likely to bend the eye to one side.
I guess I should have mentioned it.
